Day 13 Floating Lodge to Rose Harbour

Day 13 - Floating Lodge to Rose Harbour, Gwaii Haanas

WOW!

Today was a day that I had imagined and hoped for.  Haida Gwaii has been on our wish list for years, and in my imagination I pictured the ancient Haida villages, the poles and wildlife encounters, but today surpassed all that I had imagined or could possibly imagine.

Conditions were absolutely perfect, maybe better than perfect!  Heron informed us that the type of conditions we had today were very rare and we all felt that we should take advantage of this gift and take Emma and Heron up on their offer to travel to Cape St. James at the very southern most point of the islands.

We are going to the Cape!

Spirits high, gas in the tank and the sun shining we set out for the Cape, but not before we took time out of our very busy schedule to set a couple of prawn traps.  Hard to believe, but we were thinking of food again!

There really are no words to describe the feeling of excitement we had as took in the sights and sounds of this day.  From Egg Yolk Jellies and Nudibranchs to Humpback Whales and Puffins the wildlife viewing was spectacular.

Countless whales

We actually lost count of the number of whales we saw and were also privileged enough to see:

• Puffin
• Black Tailed Deer
• By the Wind Sailor Jellyfish
• Egg Yolk Jellies
• Sun Fish
• Blue Shark
• Urchins
• Guillemots
• Cormorants
• Auklets

Puffin

By the Wind Sailor

The incredible list went on and on.....

Nudibranchs....all dressed up and nowhere to go?

The land was not to be outdone by the wildlife.  We entered Woodruff Bay where our guides carefully and skillfully navigated their way to one of the most beautiful beaches I have ever seen.

Emma and Heron anchoring in Woodruff Bay

 The sandy beach stretches for kilometres and is pristine.  You would think you were in the Caribbean....except for the Helly Hanson rain gear of course!  It was sheer joy as we stripped off our heavy rain gear and boots and ran barefoot in the sand.  Not another soul to be seen.  This was definitely my favourite beach and one I will remember forever.

Heaven on earth

We enjoyed another wonderful lunch at Woodruff Bay thanks to our gracious hosts and loaded, somewhat reluctantly, back in to the Zodiac.  Our reluctance was misplaced, as before we knew it we were heading out to the Kerouard Islands to view a large Steller sea lion rookery.  This breeding colony is a busy place.  Over 600 breeding Steller sea lions use the Cape St. James rookery.  They were a treat to watch, but NOT to smell.  I believe we actually found something that was stinkier that our biking clothes!

Steller Sea Lion Rookery

Content and tired from a long day on the water, it was time to head to the Rose Harbour Guest House, our accommodation for the evening.  The guest house is owned and operated by Gotz, who immigrated to Canada in 1981 and has lived in Rose Harbour since 1983.  Susan, who is Heron's mom, has also lived in Rose Harbour since 1983.  She operates the meal service for the guests.  Susan is an amazing chef and her gourmet creations feature fresh vegetables grown in her garden.

Susan's home at Rose Harbour

We were fascinated, intrigued and touched by Rose Harbour.  Located on the site of an old abandoned whaling station, the place oozed history.

Whaling Station Memorial

Words like cute, eccentric, rustic, whimsical, character, creative, unique all come to mind when describing the guest house.  As I toured the grounds and viewed the wood burning shower, I was taken back to my childhood and reminded of Caractacus Potts, the eccentric inventor in Chitty Chitty Bang Bang.  We admired the ingenuity of our hosts.  You really need to see this extraordinary place for yourself.

Rose Harbour

Wood burning heated shower

We accessed our room by climbing a steep set of stairs clutching the driftwood banister as we climbed.  Our room also served as a hothouse and distillery.  We loved it!  The washrooms were outhouses, however, should you need to visit the facilities in the middle of the night and did not care for the long walk, Gotz did supply you with a bucket.  The caveat.....those who use the bucket, clean the bucket!  Enough said.

Main floor

We were told the Moresby four day tour is sometimes affectionately called the "Float and Bloat".  After devouring Susan's fantastic Halibut dinner we confirm that the nickname is well deserved.  We have been treated to delicious meals and snacks at every stop.  It is going to be very difficult to go back to a can of beans over our camp stove!

Appetizers with a flare from Susan's garden

Giggle of the Day:

During our stay at Rose Harbour, we shared the facilities with a film crew from Germany.  They were touring Canada as part of a series on our National Parks.  Despite the majestic beauty of Haida Gwaii, the German crew found our host, Gotz equally, if not more fascinating.  Gotz had constructed an amazing tripod ladder system to support his cherry picking endeavours.  As we wandered about, we stumbled upon the camera crew attempting to film Gotz up the ladder!

Map and Route Tips:

 #HaidaGwaii #CycleBC #explorebc #cycletour #gohaidagwaii #myopus #roseharbour #zodiac #imagesofcanada

Day 12 Moresby Camp to Floating Lodge

Day 12 Moresby Camp to Floating Lodge

To the south of Sandspit lies Gwaii Haanas, a National Park Reserve, National Marine Conservation Area Reserve and Haida Heritage Site.  This national and international treasure is only accessible by boat or seaplane and we were excited to embark on our four day tour of the Islands with Moresby Explorers.

We met our group and set off for Moresby Camp, our launch site!  Moresby Camp is an abandoned logging camp that has been redeveloped into a recreation site complete with outhouses, campsite and a boat launch.  Our group consisted of our amazing guides, Heron (owner and all things Haida Gwaii) Emma, and fellow travellers Vera, Christine, Avril, Grant, Claire and Amanda.  We gathered together and were issued our official waterproof, rainproof, for extreme conditions Helly Hanson Work Wear.

Rob ready to get started!

Helly Hanson Work Wear

What a good looking group we were......

The Intrepid Crew

Our first order of business was to master the Zodiac exit and entrance.  Easy from the luxury of a dock but we were not quite as graceful when attempting to board on the beaches.  Emma and Heron would work to keep the boat still while we flopped in and out like fish out of water.  

Vera perfects the exit

Emma paddles out to retrieve the Zodiac

Our day was full and the scenery left us speechless!  The coastal forests, thick with Sitka spruce, western hemlock and eastern red cedar dominate the islands.  The trees are massive and you feel quite insignificant beside them.  Because of the large black-tailed deer population the forest floors are thick with moss, as the deer have devoured the smaller shrubs and plants.  

Jane is dwarfed by the giants of the forest

We stopped on Louise Island, the third biggest island on Haida Gwaii and explored an old logging camp.  Old steam donkeys, equipment, bottles and leather boots littered the forest floor, reminders of days gone by.

Heron explains the history of the logging operation

Time for a new pair of boots?

The highlight of the day was a tour of Skedans, a Haida village site.  The village was abandoned in the 1880's near the end of the smallpox epidemic.  It was fascinating and moving to view the remains of the poles and houses.  Each pole tells a story with its representation of human, animal and supernatural figures. They are now covered in moss and slowly decaying.  I was struck by the way the forest was reclaiming the poles, almost in a protective and nurturing way.  You can not help but feel the deep connection that the Haida people have for the land and nature and it is easy to see how Emily Carr was inspired to create some of her most loved paintings here. 

Emma leads the way at Skedans

The forest takes back the pole

Remnants of a longhouse

We were deeply moved by the visit to Skedans and this unique opportunity to learn about the Haida culture.

Potlatch rings visible on this Memorial Pole

Our day ended on a high!  We were spending the night at the Moresby Explorers' Floating Lodge located in a small remote cove.  We rounded the bend to see this.....

The Floating Lodge

As we arrived we were greeted by our amazing Chef, Mariel and float camp volunteer Amanda. 

Mariel, Emma and Amanda

 They had the fire on, appetizers ready and welcomed us with open arms. We enjoyed a lively dinner with our new friends, and then Rob and I noticed kayaks and managed to excuse ourselves.  We enjoyed an evening paddle - what a treat!  The silence was palpable, and it almost felt intrusive to dip our paddles in the water.  It was a magical moment....one we will never forget! 

We couldn't resist the opportunity to paddle

We found our pot of gold in Haida Gwaii

Giggle of the Day:

Gwaii Haanas is the first protected area in the world that is managed form the top of the mountains to the bottom of the sea as one integrated and connected space.  We were extremely excited about the wildlife viewing opportunities this special area presents - the Galapagos of the North so to speak!  However, our first wildlife encounter was not quite what we expected.  We donned our rain gear and were heading to the boat ramp to begin our adventure when nature called.  It was decidedly time for one last visit to the outhouse.  Rob got straight to business and as luck would have it found himself sharing the facility with a wasp's nest.  After two little stings and a quick exit, Rob was ready to launch!

p.s.  we noticed on our return to Moresby Camp, the outhouse had been closed and caution tape was wrapped around the door.  Thanks to Rob for taking one for the team!

Map and Route Tips:

Gwaii Haanas is only accessible by boat or seaplane.

A list of licensed tour operators and other information can be found on the Parks Canada website at www.pc.gc.ca/gwaiihaanas  Of course, our favourite guides are at Moresby Explorers!

An orientation session is required for all visitors before entering Gwaii Haanas.  Those planning to visit without a guide must make reservations and purchase a visitor permit.



 #HaidaGwaii #CycleBC #explorebc #cycletour #gohaidagwaii #myopus #northernbc #zodiak #paddle

Day 11 Gray Bay

Day 11 Gray Bay - Morseby Island

To say we received a warm welcome from the Morseby Explorers staff team is the understatement of the year.  We instantly felt like family and much credit must be given to the company owners, Laura and Heron.  They are an amazing couple and together have created something very special, something more than just a 'business".  Both Laura and Heron have an intimate knowledge of the islands and a passion for sharing this knowledge.  It was such an honour to meet them and to be their guests.

Morseby Explorers Office

Laura gave us a tour of their home and we delighted in viewing their garden, shop, kayak storage area, outdoor store, pig pen......as you can see it is an impressive operation!

Garden 

Pig Pen

Ducks

We took a day to explore Morseby Island and as luck would have it, Emma had time off.  Thrilled to have a personal tour of the area, we asked Emma to show us her favourite spots.  We managed to pick up picnic supplies in Sandspit and set off for Gray Bay.

Gray Bay

Gray Bay is a spectacular crescent shaped beach featuring a campground set among an alder, spruce and hemlock forest.  The beach is gorgeous and we spent the morning beach combing.

Beach Combing - Gray Bay

Of course, Emma couldn't resist a quick dip!

Come on in...the water is fine!

Just when you think you can't find a nicer beach or more scenic spot - you do! We left Gray Bay and spent the afternoon at Secret Cove, a secluded pebble beach.  Once again we were left speechless at the sheer beauty of this place.  We had the beach to ourselves and quickly lost all track of time.  I would suggest this loss of time is a type of occupational hazard for all those who venture to Haida Gwaii.

Rob quickly adapts to the slower pace of life in Haida Gwaii

We were invited to share dinner with the Moresby staff team and enjoyed an evening of laughter and stories.  We did not want the day to end.

Giggle of the Day:

We settled in to our tent behind the Seaport B and B, nestled between the pigs and the ducks, anticipating a good sleep.  We were looking forward to the start of our four day boat tour with Morseby Explorers.  Just as we were dozing off a loud commotion woke us up.  We stuck our heads out of the tent to see several staff members frantically rounding up chickens.  They had somehow managed to "fly the coop" and a large Eagle was circling above looking forward to a tasty treat.  All in a day's work.

Map and Route Tips:

Travel to Gray Bay is along active logging roads.  The road is rough,  so watch for potholes.  The Visitor Centre in Sandspit can provide updates on road conditions and logging activity.


#HaidaGwaii #CycleBC #explorebc #cycletour #gohaidagwaii #myopus

Day 10 Prince Rupert to Sandspit

Day 10 - Prince Rupert to Sandspit, B.C.

93 nautical miles - 15 km cycling

Once again we found ourselves up bright and early waiting in line for a ferry.  Only two more sailings to go and we would finally be in Haida Gwaii.  We were only 40 miles south of the Alaska border with 93 nautical miles and 7 hours to go before we arrived on Graham Island.

As we waited to board we were joined by a feisty "old-timer" named Lou.  What a gem!  Lou is a very young 79 years and has been living on Graham Island for the last 45 years.  He is a burly man and has quite an intimidating presence until he smiles.  He rides a motorcycle and was dressed from head to toe in leather.

Lou is a wonderful storyteller and we enjoyed spending time with him as we waited to board the ferry.  He knew almost everyone in line by name and shared jokes and updates with the crowd.  We would soon learn that not much gets by people in Haida Gwaii, as the community is very close-knit and news travels fast.

Lou shared fantastic ferry stories and we were in stitches as he described storms, delays and exciting journeys across the Hecate Strait.  This body of water is quite shallow and marine weather conditions can often be quite severe. Apparently, the locals affectionately (or not) call the ferry the Northern Misadventure and we were soon to experience our own.

BC Ferries Northern Adventure connecting Prince Rupert to Skidegate Landing

Not a bike rack to be seen....we are asked to tie the bikes down

Barf Bags and Charging Station?

The ferry was over one hour late leaving Prince Rupert as the crew took extra time loading in an attempt to squeeze every delivery truck, camper, motorcycle, car, bike and van on to the boat.  It was an amazing puzzle and credit to the crew for their valiant efforts to accommodate everyone.  Selfishly, we were becoming quite worried that we would miss our connecting ferry to Sandspit.  No one else on the boat seemed worried as the majority were locals and on "island time."  Just as we were sure we were going to miss our sailing, the ship's captain announced that they would hold the connecting ferry for us.  We were amazed!  We arrived in dock and the crew held back all of the walk on passengers and vehicles and gave us a personal escort off the boat and onto the next one.  Thank you BC Ferries!

The crew holds the Kwuna Ferry for us

Approach to Alliford Bay on Morseby Island

The crossing to Morseby Island is very short and absolutely beautiful.  We excitedly waited to disembark and before we knew it we were back on our bikes cycling the last few kilometres to Sandspit.  We enjoyed a flat and easy ride and took a few moments to celebrate our arrival to the Edge of the World.

Only 2 km to go!

Giggle of the Day:

This isn't so much a giggle, but a tale of joy.  After our long cycle and numerous, lengthy ferry crossings we finally rode up to the Moresby Explorers office in search of our daughter....and there she was having just returned from guiding a day tour.  We found her washing the van.....and we would argue there isn't a prettier sight in all of Haida Gwaii.

Morseby Explorers Office

Emma

Map and Route Tips:

BC Ferries - Northern Adventure Ferry - Prince Rupert to Skidegate, Graham Island - 93 nautical miles
BC Ferries - Kwuna Ferry - Skidegate Landing to Alliford Bay, Moreseby Island

Alliford Bay to Sandspit - 10 km


#HaidaGwaii #CycleBC #explorebc #cycletour #gohaidagwaii #myopus #hecatestrait