Day 17 - Tlell to Queen Charlotte City

Day 17 - Tlell to Queen Charlotte City

50km

They say all good things must come to an end and I suppose that is true.  Today was to be our last day in Haida Gwaii.  The warm, sunny weather continued and we decided breakfast on the beach would be an appropriate way to start the day.  We were in a mood to delay the trip back south so decided to leave our bikes and gear at the campsite and hike to the Pesuta shipwreck.

Pesutaa Shipwreck - Naikoon Provincial Park

The Pesuta, a 200 foot log carrier, ran aground in 1928.  Not much of her remains and I imagine it won't be long before the ocean claims what is left of Pesuta.

Serenity

We had a wonderful low, low tide so were able to hike the distance out to Pesuta completely along the beach.  East beach starts in Tlell and stretches out for 65 kilometres.  We were told it is the longest beach in Canada and after hiking to Petusa we were beginning to wonder how "Long Beach" on Vancouver Island got its name.  The hike featured miles of ocean views, sand dunes and river crossings.

Sand dunes line the trail to Petusa

Crossing the Tlell River at low tide

We hiked for the entire morning along that wonderful stretch of beach and did not see or hear a single, solitary person!  We didn't even see a boat on the horizon.

The only 2 on the beach 

We spent some time exploring the shipwreck and then began the return trip to our campsite.  As the tide was coming in we decided to take the inland forest trail back.  As we were about to leave the beach and head in to the forest trail we had our first human sighting!  A couple of brave camp counsellors were trekking with a bunch of kids.  The group was embarking on an 89km hike to Tow Hill.  The counsellors were pumped...and the kids were already dragging their feet.  I imagine there will be a few challenging moments ahead for the group.

Camp Counsellors leading the way

Paw Power

The rich forested area was a nice contrast to the beach hike and we thoroughly enjoyed the last few kilometres through the moss covered old growth forest.  Really - a two for one type of hike.  Now that's what we call a deal!

Second leg of the hike through old growth forest

After procrastinating long enough it was time to pack up camp and head back south.  We stopped for second breakfast at the Crows Nest Cafe and Country Store.  We laughed as we bumped in to folk who had been paddling the Haida canoe during Skidegate Days.  It was uncanny how after just a couple of weeks in Haida Gwaii we already were bumping in to "friends" at stops along the way.  We were quickly becoming Island regulars.

The road home

We took the last few kilometres to Queen Charlotte City slowly, making excuses to stop at each and every lookout, roadside pull out and empty lot.  Neither of us wanted the trip to end.  I expect Haida Gwaii has this effect on many of those who visit.

Thank you Haida Gwaii

Giggle of the Day:

Near Lawn Hill we came across a carved Madonna at a road side pullout.  The carving was beside a spring called St. Mary's Spring.  It is said that whoever drinks the pure water from the spring will return to the islands.

Carving at St. Mary's Spring

Excited at the thought of having an excuse to return to the islands we quickly grabbed our water bottles and approached the stream.  We were just about to fill up when we noticed a government sign..... an unusual and funny blend of island legend meeting health codes.  We will let you wonder if we drank the water or not!

Drinking water advisory

Map and Route Tips:

Pesuta Shipwreck Trail - best to hike at low tide



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