Reflections - Cycle Tour to Haida Gwaii

Reflections, Maps, Route Tip and Tidbits - Cycle Tour to Haida Gwaii

We quickly realized that Haida Gwaii is so much more than a wish list destination.  It is a place that touches your heart and soul and leaves an impression that I suspect will last a lifetime.

We began our vacation thinking we were embarking on a cycle tour, but as we look back at the miles we travelled, the places we visited and the people we met, it is clear that a visit to Haida Gwaii and more specifically, Gwaii Haanas was a once in a lifetime opportunity.  To explore this fascinating part of our world with Heron, owner of Moresby Explorers and our own daughter, Emma, as our guides was a thrill beyond measure.

Heron and Emma - Moresby Explorers

You know the feeling you have when you take a picture of a breath taking sunset and later when you view the picture you find yourself thinking, this photo doesn't do it justice?  Well, we freely admit that our photos and descriptions do not do justice to the splendour and ruggedness of Haida Gwaii.

In truth, this tour felt like two separate experiences.  The cycle route on Vancouver Island and the MS Ride was certainly a thrill and definitely a route we would recommend.   Vancouver Island is beautiful and offers much to the touring cyclist.  The ferry route along the Inside Passage was comparable to a cruise and a trip we encourage those visiting British Columbia to do.

The FasTurtles - Lesley, Nancy, Mike, Paul, Jane, Rob, James & Karen

However, in all honesty, the days spent on Vancouver Island seem to pale in comparison to the time spent in Haida Gwaii. Tourist magazines and websites declare that the land and sea have shaped the people who live on these islands and I would suggest our visit has shaped us too.

Each pole tells a story with representations of human, animal & spiritual figures

As we gazed at the craved mortuary and memorial poles located in the village of S'Gang Gwaay we were transported back in time and we tried to imagine the way of life of the Haida.  The Haida do not have a written language, yet the poles tell the stories of the Raven and Eagle moieties and in essence bring history to life.  As a UNESCO site, S'Gang Gwaay is considered to have outstanding universal value and was designated a World Heritage Site under the following criterion:

"SGang Gwaay llnagaay (Nan Sdins), located on SGang Gwaay (Anthony Island) in an archipelago off the west coast of British Columbia, bears unique testimony to the culture of the Haida. The art represented by the carved poles at SGang Gwaay llnagaay (Nan Sdins) is recognized to be among the finest examples of its type in the world."  (Parks Canada)

Poles at S'Gang Gwaay

Cycling to Haida Gwaii was much more than a vacation.  In fact it was a privilege to visit a place that is sacred to so many.  The legend of St. Mary's Spring states that those who sip the natural water will find a reason and a way to someday return to the islands.

I don't think we will need a reason.

The Edge of the World

Map and Route Tips:

• Be sure to allocate time to explore Gwaii Haanas.  This area is only accessible by boat or seaplane.  There are several tour operators in the area who can assist you.  Our favourite, of course, is Moresby Explorers.
• Watch the tidal swings!  Tidal range can be up to 24 feet....makes for great beach combing, but can also have a huge impact on current speeds.
• To expand cycling opportunities in Haida Gwaii, consider a mountain bike, as many areas are only accessed via logging roads or trails.  

BC Ferries

• We travelled via BC Ferries on the following routes.  Check schedules carefully.
• Tsawassen to Schwartz Bay
• Brentwood Bay to Mill Bay
• Port Hardy to Prince Rupert - the Inside Passage
• Prince Rupert to Skidegate Landing
• Skidegate Landing to Alliford Bay
• Services on the Island Highway north of Campbell River are limited.  Be sure to check your distances and stock up on food and water.  Also, note that bike shops are few and far between.  Bring parts!
• Great camping along the route.
• Motels and Hotels readily available for those nights you might need or want a hot shower and soft bed.
• We had fantastic weather....BUT - be sure to build in extra time, as conditions can change rapidly, especially the further north you venture.  Remember, there is no such thing as bad weather - just bad gear.  Pack the rain gear!!!
• There's an APP for that. It was interesting to learn how the Haida elders are working to preserve their heritage and culture.  The Skidegate Haida Immersion Program (SHIP) strives to preserve and revitalize the language....and yes there is an app for that available on ITunes!
• Last, but not least, pack your camera!  From bears and eagles to whales, sunfish and nudibranchs..the wildlife viewing was incredible!

#ThisIsMyBC #ShareTheCoast #cycle #bike #cycletour #gohaidagwaii #explorebc

Day 17 - Tlell to Queen Charlotte City

Day 17 - Tlell to Queen Charlotte City

50km

They say all good things must come to an end and I suppose that is true.  Today was to be our last day in Haida Gwaii.  The warm, sunny weather continued and we decided breakfast on the beach would be an appropriate way to start the day.  We were in a mood to delay the trip back south so decided to leave our bikes and gear at the campsite and hike to the Pesuta shipwreck.

Pesutaa Shipwreck - Naikoon Provincial Park

The Pesuta, a 200 foot log carrier, ran aground in 1928.  Not much of her remains and I imagine it won't be long before the ocean claims what is left of Pesuta.

Serenity

We had a wonderful low, low tide so were able to hike the distance out to Pesuta completely along the beach.  East beach starts in Tlell and stretches out for 65 kilometres.  We were told it is the longest beach in Canada and after hiking to Petusa we were beginning to wonder how "Long Beach" on Vancouver Island got its name.  The hike featured miles of ocean views, sand dunes and river crossings.

Sand dunes line the trail to Petusa

Crossing the Tlell River at low tide

We hiked for the entire morning along that wonderful stretch of beach and did not see or hear a single, solitary person!  We didn't even see a boat on the horizon.

The only 2 on the beach 

We spent some time exploring the shipwreck and then began the return trip to our campsite.  As the tide was coming in we decided to take the inland forest trail back.  As we were about to leave the beach and head in to the forest trail we had our first human sighting!  A couple of brave camp counsellors were trekking with a bunch of kids.  The group was embarking on an 89km hike to Tow Hill.  The counsellors were pumped...and the kids were already dragging their feet.  I imagine there will be a few challenging moments ahead for the group.

Camp Counsellors leading the way

Paw Power

The rich forested area was a nice contrast to the beach hike and we thoroughly enjoyed the last few kilometres through the moss covered old growth forest.  Really - a two for one type of hike.  Now that's what we call a deal!

Second leg of the hike through old growth forest

After procrastinating long enough it was time to pack up camp and head back south.  We stopped for second breakfast at the Crows Nest Cafe and Country Store.  We laughed as we bumped in to folk who had been paddling the Haida canoe during Skidegate Days.  It was uncanny how after just a couple of weeks in Haida Gwaii we already were bumping in to "friends" at stops along the way.  We were quickly becoming Island regulars.

The road home

We took the last few kilometres to Queen Charlotte City slowly, making excuses to stop at each and every lookout, roadside pull out and empty lot.  Neither of us wanted the trip to end.  I expect Haida Gwaii has this effect on many of those who visit.

Thank you Haida Gwaii

Giggle of the Day:

Near Lawn Hill we came across a carved Madonna at a road side pullout.  The carving was beside a spring called St. Mary's Spring.  It is said that whoever drinks the pure water from the spring will return to the islands.

Carving at St. Mary's Spring

Excited at the thought of having an excuse to return to the islands we quickly grabbed our water bottles and approached the stream.  We were just about to fill up when we noticed a government sign..... an unusual and funny blend of island legend meeting health codes.  We will let you wonder if we drank the water or not!

Drinking water advisory

Map and Route Tips:

Pesuta Shipwreck Trail - best to hike at low tide



#HaidaGwaii #CycleBC #explorebc #cycletour #gohaidagwaii #myopus #pesutashipwreck #hike #northernbc #parkscanada

Day 16 - Sandspit to Tlell, Haida Gwaii - Back on the Bikes

Day 16 - Sandspit to Tlell

Back on the bikes - 56km

After four fabulous days of floating and bloating it was time to get back on the bikes.  We felt sad leaving Emma and Sandspit, but it was time to move on.  We bid farewell and set off for the ferry, making a quick stop at Onward Point to look for whales.

Onward Point, Moresby Island

 As we were cycling out of Sandspit an approaching car slowed.  The driver rolled down the window and cautioned us that a bear was up ahead on the road.

I am working hard to overcome my fear of bears, but the driver did not say exactly where up ahead the bear was lurking and as I peddled along I had visions of bears attacking at each bend.  I stopped to pull out my whistle and find the bear bangers.  To Rob's amusement (or disgust?) I began to sing at the top of my lungs.  If my singing doesn't scare a bear away, nothing will!

A couple of kilometers up the road, we finally saw him.  I came to a complete and full stop.  It seemed the prudent thing to do.  The bear took a little run at an approaching car, gave us a disinterested look and then scampered in to the forest.  We would like to share a picture of the bear with you, but honestly, when you round the bend on your bike and encounter a bear, your first instinct is not to reach for the camera.  We waited a long while for the bear to move on and for my heart rate to return to normal.

Welcome to Skidegate

After the short ferry crossing to Graham Island we set our sights on Skidegate.  It was the annual Skidegate Days Celebration featuring a marathon, canoe races, fish splitting competition, salmon dinner and Grand Finale Dance.  We stopped to take in the action and while we were eating dinner we ran in to David, a young guy who had been volunteering with Moresby Explorers.  David is from St. Louis, Missouri.  We asked how he managed to find his way to Haida Gwaii.  We loved his answer.  His father had given him a Lonely Planet book and David's mission was to visit all of the "cool places" he had read about.  David was spending a few more days on the Island and then making his way further north.  I silently wondered if his Dad ever regretted gifting the book to David.

Northbound on Graham Island

We learned that the Skidegate Days Grand Finale dance was sold out, so it was an easy decision to point north and head for Tlell.  We took time out to visit Balance Rock, another one of Haida Gwaii's spiritual wonders.

Balance Rock

We enjoyed a flat, easy ride along the coast to TLell, population 179.  We were both glad for a short and easy ride as our bodies were highly tuned in to floating and bloating versus cycling. I am afraid it may take a few days to get our cycling legs back.  Our home for the night was in the Misty Meadows campground located in Naikoon Provincial Park.

Misty Meadows - Naikoon Provincial Park

Naikoon is bordered by a hundred kilometres of expansive beach.  Rainforest, wetlands, bogs and sand dunes make up the area.  We pitched the tent, hung our food to keep it away from curious and hungry bears and enjoyed a fabulous evening by the ocean.  We had the entire beach to ourselves.

Back to basics....peanut butter and granola

Giggle of the Day:

True confession time!  Rob and I are "culturally challenged."  It is not that we don't have an appreciation for the arts, culture and history, but when push comes to shove we always choose to be outside cycling, hiking or paddling during our vacations.  However, we made an exception on this trip.  Everyone we met encouraged us to visit the Haida Heritage Centre at Kay Llnagaay.  This 50,000 square foot space features the Haida Gwaii Museum, Performance House, Carving Shed, Canoe House, Bill Reid Teaching Centre, classrooms and a bistro.  A must see!

Haida Heritage Centre at Kay Llangaay

Fascinated by our stops at the Haida Villages in Gwaii Haanas, we decided to visit the Heritage Centre to learn more about the Haida culture.  We paid our admission and eyeglasses in hand (yes - we were serious enough about our visit to take our glasses with us!) we began our tour of this award winning museum.

As we stopped to view one of the displays we were cautiously approached by a Museum staff member.  "Could I ask a favour?" she said.  "Of course!" We replied.

Part of the Skidegate Days festivities included a canoe race.  Before we knew it, we were outside the museum, waist deep in the ocean, helping paddlers bring a traditionally constructed Haida canoe up on shore!  So much for our museum tour.

These are not small boats and it took a few attempts to get the beast up on the beach. Icing on the cake - we were being filmed by the German documentary film makers we had meet a few days earlier at Rose Harbour.  We continue to be surprised at how many people we bump in to that we have seen before.

Paddlers return after a first place finish in the Skidegate Days Canoe Race

Teamwork was needed to land this canoe!

Map and Route Tips:

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Day 15 Floating Lodge to Sandspit

Day 15 - Floating Lodge to Sandspit

"Humanity has a need for places to expand beyond the dimensions of the day to day grind and to fortify the body, mind, and other spirit - places for our ancestors and those that follow us.  Gwaii Haanas provides people with such a tombstone."  Excerpt from Gwaii Haanas Strategic Management Plan

A picture of contentment

We started our day with a wonderful low tide enabling us to visit the now exposed underwater world on the northern tip of Shuttle Island.  The marine ecosystems of Gwaii Haanas are home to a wide variety of sea life.  Think of your local beach on steroids!  We pulled ashore and spent the morning exploring the intertidal zone:

The last stop of our tour was at T'aanuu Linagaay (Tanu) a Haida village site on Tanu Island.  We were delighted to meet Walter, Mary and their darling daughter Raven, maybe the youngest and cutest of the Haida Watchmen.  Walter lead on us on a wonderful tour.  His calm and gentle demeanour seemed to suit the island perfectly.

Walter - Haida Watchman

Raven and Mary - Haida Watchmen

After his death in 1998, world famous artist Bill Reid's ashes were brought home by friends and relatives to Tanu, his mother's ancestral village.  Little is left standing at Tanu, but you feel the spirit of the place as you gaze at the house depressions and moss covered posts.

Tanu

Our return leg to Moresby Camp took us through Louise Narrows and provided us with our first bear sighting.  The black bears on Haida Gwaii are a subspecies found only on the islands.  They have larger jaws and teeth than their mainland counterparts.  I confess that I have an unfounded and intense fear of bears, so I was quite happy to be bear watching from the Zodiac and not from my bike.  Haida traditions consider the bear to be chief of the forest....I totally agree, and am happy to get out of the way!  Hail to the Chief!

First bear sighting

After four awe-inspiring days we arrived back at Moresby Camp.  Each of us took something different away from our exploration of Gwaii Haanas, but I think we would all agree that Haida Gwaii is a place unlike any other in the world.

Giggle of the Day:

Our return to Sandspit was cause for celebration!  We were invited to join the Moresby staff team at their favourite local and only Chinese Food Restaurant - Dick's Wok Inn.  We were welcomed by Dick himself who cooked us up a delicious meal.  Rob and I sat back and listened as the Moresby folk joked, teased and compared stories of their most recent tours.  The energy, passion and enthusiasm of the group was something to admire....it was evident that they love their jobs, this magical place and I would suggest each other.  They all seem to share a deep connection to Haida Gwaii and the three realms of creatures:  those of the sea, those of the land and those of the sky.  Not really something to giggle about, but definitely something that makes one smile.

Dick's Wok Inn

Map and Route Tips:


#HaidaGwaii #CycleBC #explorebc #cycletour #gohaidagwaii #myopus #gwaiihaanas #tanu #haida

Day 13 Floating Lodge to Rose Harbour

Day 13 - Floating Lodge to Rose Harbour, Gwaii Haanas

WOW!

Today was a day that I had imagined and hoped for.  Haida Gwaii has been on our wish list for years, and in my imagination I pictured the ancient Haida villages, the poles and wildlife encounters, but today surpassed all that I had imagined or could possibly imagine.

Conditions were absolutely perfect, maybe better than perfect!  Heron informed us that the type of conditions we had today were very rare and we all felt that we should take advantage of this gift and take Emma and Heron up on their offer to travel to Cape St. James at the very southern most point of the islands.

We are going to the Cape!

Spirits high, gas in the tank and the sun shining we set out for the Cape, but not before we took time out of our very busy schedule to set a couple of prawn traps.  Hard to believe, but we were thinking of food again!

There really are no words to describe the feeling of excitement we had as took in the sights and sounds of this day.  From Egg Yolk Jellies and Nudibranchs to Humpback Whales and Puffins the wildlife viewing was spectacular.

Countless whales

We actually lost count of the number of whales we saw and were also privileged enough to see:

• Puffin
• Black Tailed Deer
• By the Wind Sailor Jellyfish
• Egg Yolk Jellies
• Sun Fish
• Blue Shark
• Urchins
• Guillemots
• Cormorants
• Auklets

Puffin

By the Wind Sailor

The incredible list went on and on.....

Nudibranchs....all dressed up and nowhere to go?

The land was not to be outdone by the wildlife.  We entered Woodruff Bay where our guides carefully and skillfully navigated their way to one of the most beautiful beaches I have ever seen.

Emma and Heron anchoring in Woodruff Bay

 The sandy beach stretches for kilometres and is pristine.  You would think you were in the Caribbean....except for the Helly Hanson rain gear of course!  It was sheer joy as we stripped off our heavy rain gear and boots and ran barefoot in the sand.  Not another soul to be seen.  This was definitely my favourite beach and one I will remember forever.

Heaven on earth

We enjoyed another wonderful lunch at Woodruff Bay thanks to our gracious hosts and loaded, somewhat reluctantly, back in to the Zodiac.  Our reluctance was misplaced, as before we knew it we were heading out to the Kerouard Islands to view a large Steller sea lion rookery.  This breeding colony is a busy place.  Over 600 breeding Steller sea lions use the Cape St. James rookery.  They were a treat to watch, but NOT to smell.  I believe we actually found something that was stinkier that our biking clothes!

Steller Sea Lion Rookery

Content and tired from a long day on the water, it was time to head to the Rose Harbour Guest House, our accommodation for the evening.  The guest house is owned and operated by Gotz, who immigrated to Canada in 1981 and has lived in Rose Harbour since 1983.  Susan, who is Heron's mom, has also lived in Rose Harbour since 1983.  She operates the meal service for the guests.  Susan is an amazing chef and her gourmet creations feature fresh vegetables grown in her garden.

Susan's home at Rose Harbour

We were fascinated, intrigued and touched by Rose Harbour.  Located on the site of an old abandoned whaling station, the place oozed history.

Whaling Station Memorial

Words like cute, eccentric, rustic, whimsical, character, creative, unique all come to mind when describing the guest house.  As I toured the grounds and viewed the wood burning shower, I was taken back to my childhood and reminded of Caractacus Potts, the eccentric inventor in Chitty Chitty Bang Bang.  We admired the ingenuity of our hosts.  You really need to see this extraordinary place for yourself.

Rose Harbour

Wood burning heated shower

We accessed our room by climbing a steep set of stairs clutching the driftwood banister as we climbed.  Our room also served as a hothouse and distillery.  We loved it!  The washrooms were outhouses, however, should you need to visit the facilities in the middle of the night and did not care for the long walk, Gotz did supply you with a bucket.  The caveat.....those who use the bucket, clean the bucket!  Enough said.

Main floor

We were told the Moresby four day tour is sometimes affectionately called the "Float and Bloat".  After devouring Susan's fantastic Halibut dinner we confirm that the nickname is well deserved.  We have been treated to delicious meals and snacks at every stop.  It is going to be very difficult to go back to a can of beans over our camp stove!

Appetizers with a flare from Susan's garden

Giggle of the Day:

During our stay at Rose Harbour, we shared the facilities with a film crew from Germany.  They were touring Canada as part of a series on our National Parks.  Despite the majestic beauty of Haida Gwaii, the German crew found our host, Gotz equally, if not more fascinating.  Gotz had constructed an amazing tripod ladder system to support his cherry picking endeavours.  As we wandered about, we stumbled upon the camera crew attempting to film Gotz up the ladder!

Map and Route Tips:

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