tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-55709715878947935412024-03-19T05:51:43.054-07:00Cycle Tour to Haida Gwaii For years a visit to Haida Gwaii has been on our wish list! This archipelago off the Northwest Coast of British Columbia is remote, incredibly beautiful, relatively untouched and rich in Haida culture. The fascinating history of the Haida people goes back to the great floods and the first tree. Our cycle tour will take us from Surrey, BC to Vancouver Island and then by ferry from Port Hardy to Haida Gwaii. Thanks for sharing the ride!Jane and Robhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09284062943939465883noreply@blogger.comBlogger19125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5570971587894793541.post-79721144355356993932015-08-17T10:01:00.002-07:002019-01-21T14:25:40.345-08:00Reflections - Cycle Tour to Haida Gwaii<h2>
<b><u>Reflections, Maps, Route Tip and Tidbits - Cycle Tour to Haida Gwaii</u></b></h2>
<b><u><br /></u></b> We quickly realized that Haida Gwaii is so much more than a wish list destination. It is a place that touches your heart and soul and leaves an impression that I suspect will last a lifetime.<br />
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We began our vacation thinking we were embarking on a cycle tour, but as we look back at the miles we travelled, the places we visited and the people we met, it is clear that a visit to Haida Gwaii and more specifically, Gwaii Haanas was a once in a lifetime opportunity. To explore this fascinating part of our world with Heron, owner of <a href="http://moresbyexplorers.com/">Moresby Explorers</a> and our own daughter, Emma, as our guides was a thrill beyond measure.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-WQaGtBBef_c/VcqHo-xjOXI/AAAAAAAAIHM/4UTIyXNkvRE/s1600/DSCF2599.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-WQaGtBBef_c/VcqHo-xjOXI/AAAAAAAAIHM/4UTIyXNkvRE/s320/DSCF2599.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Heron and Emma - Moresby Explorers</td></tr>
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You know the feeling you have when you take a picture of a breath taking sunset and later when you view the picture you find yourself thinking, this photo doesn't do it justice? Well, we freely admit that our photos and descriptions do not do justice to the splendour and ruggedness of Haida Gwaii.<br />
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In truth, this tour felt like two separate experiences. The cycle route on Vancouver Island and the MS Ride was certainly a thrill and definitely a route we would recommend. Vancouver Island is beautiful and offers much to the touring cyclist. The ferry route along the Inside Passage was comparable to a cruise and a trip we encourage those visiting British Columbia to do.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jrRbN7jkaaY/VcqIWXcSEUI/AAAAAAAAIHo/s0l-o_-gIGY/s1600/DSCF2036.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jrRbN7jkaaY/VcqIWXcSEUI/AAAAAAAAIHo/s0l-o_-gIGY/s320/DSCF2036.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The FasTurtles - Lesley, Nancy, Mike, Paul, Jane, Rob, James & Karen</td></tr>
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However, in all honesty, the days spent on Vancouver Island seem to pale in comparison to the time spent in Haida Gwaii. Tourist magazines and websites declare that the land and sea have shaped the people who live on these islands and I would suggest our visit has shaped us too.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Each pole tells a story with representations of human, animal & spiritual figures</td></tr>
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As we gazed at the craved mortuary and memorial poles located in the village of S'Gang Gwaay we were transported back in time and we tried to imagine the way of life of the Haida. The Haida do not have a written language, yet the poles tell the stories of the Raven and Eagle moieties and in essence bring history to life. As a UNESCO site, S'Gang Gwaay is considered to have outstanding universal value and was designated a World Heritage Site under the following criterion:<br />
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"SGang Gwaay llnagaay (Nan Sdins), located on SGang Gwaay (Anthony Island) in an archipelago off the west coast of British Columbia, bears unique testimony to the culture of the Haida. The art represented by the carved poles at SGang Gwaay llnagaay (Nan Sdins) is recognized to be among the finest examples of its type in the world." (<a href="http://www.pc.gc.ca/eng/progs/spm-whs/sec02/sec02f.aspx">Parks Canada</a>)<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Poles at S'Gang Gwaay</td></tr>
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Cycling to Haida Gwaii was much more than a vacation. In fact it was a privilege to visit a place that is sacred to so many. The legend of St. Mary's Spring states that those who sip the natural water will find a reason and a way to someday return to the islands.<br />
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I don't think we will need a reason.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-cvgWS9DJwlI/VblBsArYWpI/AAAAAAAAHug/akCwp5LnPDQ/s1600/sunset_haida.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-cvgWS9DJwlI/VblBsArYWpI/AAAAAAAAHug/akCwp5LnPDQ/s320/sunset_haida.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Edge of the World</td></tr>
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<b><u><br /></u></b> <b><u><br /></u></b> <b><u>Map and Route Tips:</u></b><br />
<ul>
<li>Be sure to allocate time to explore Gwaii Haanas. This area is only accessible by boat or seaplane. There are several tour operators in the area who can assist you. Our favourite, of course, is <a href="http://www.moresbyexplorers.com/">Moresby Explorers</a>.</li>
<li>Watch the tidal swings! Tidal range can be up to 24 feet....makes for great beach combing, but can also have a huge impact on current speeds.</li>
<li>To expand cycling opportunities in Haida Gwaii, consider a mountain bike, as many areas are only accessed via logging roads or trails. </li>
</ul>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-CSJeHxOo2GE/VcqK_IeO9AI/AAAAAAAAIJA/yk9n-h1R3U0/s1600/DSCF2893.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-CSJeHxOo2GE/VcqK_IeO9AI/AAAAAAAAIJA/yk9n-h1R3U0/s320/DSCF2893.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">BC Ferries</td></tr>
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<ul>
<li>We travelled via BC Ferries on the following routes. Check schedules carefully.</li>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://www.bcferries.com/schedules/mainland/tssw-current.php">Tsawassen to Schwartz Bay</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.bcferries.com/schedules/mainland/bbmb-current.php">Brentwood Bay to Mill Bay</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.bcferries.com/schedules/inside/ip-current.php">Port Hardy to Prince Rupert - the Inside Passage</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.bcferries.com/schedules/inside/qci-current.php">Prince Rupert to Skidegate Landing</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.bcferries.com/schedules/inside/absk-current.php">Skidegate Landing to Alliford Bay</a></li>
</ul>
<li>Services on the Island Highway north of Campbell River are limited. Be sure to check your distances and stock up on food and water. Also, note that bike shops are few and far between. Bring parts!</li>
<li>Great camping along the route.</li>
<li>Motels and Hotels readily available for those nights you might need or want a hot shower and soft bed.</li>
<li>We had fantastic weather....BUT - be sure to build in extra time, as conditions can change rapidly, especially the further north you venture. Remember, there is no such thing as bad weather - just bad gear. Pack the rain gear!!!</li>
<li>There's an APP for that. It was interesting to learn how the Haida elders are working to preserve their heritage and culture. The <a href="http://www.haidanation.ca/Pages/language/skidegate.html">Skidegate Haida Immersion Program</a> (SHIP) strives to preserve and revitalize the language....and yes there is an<a href="https://itunes.apple.com/ca/app/hlgaagilda-xaayda-kil/id474664985?mt=8"> app</a> for that available on ITunes!</li>
<li>Last, but not least, pack your camera! From bears and eagles to whales, sunfish and nudibranchs..the wildlife viewing was incredible!</li>
</ul>
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#ThisIsMyBC #ShareTheCoast #cycle #bike #cycletour #gohaidagwaii #explorebc</div>
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Jane and Robhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09284062943939465883noreply@blogger.com0Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve and Haida Heritage Site, Queen Charlotte, BC V0T 1S0, Canada52.4682741 -131.558229131.0490281 -172.8668231 73.8875201 -90.2496351tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5570971587894793541.post-42522670023452332862015-08-05T08:54:00.003-07:002019-01-21T14:25:25.853-08:00Day 17 - Tlell to Queen Charlotte City<h2>
<b><u>Day 17 - Tlell to Queen Charlotte City</u></b></h2>
50km<br />
<b><u><br /></u></b> They say all good things must come to an end and I suppose that is true. Today was to be our last day in Haida Gwaii. The warm, sunny weather continued and we decided breakfast on the beach would be an appropriate way to start the day. We were in a mood to delay the trip back south so decided to leave our bikes and gear at the campsite and hike to the Pesuta shipwreck.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pesutaa Shipwreck - Naikoon Provincial Park</td></tr>
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The Pesuta, a 200 foot log carrier, ran aground in 1928. Not much of her remains and I imagine it won't be long before the ocean claims what is left of Pesuta.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Serenity</td></tr>
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We had a wonderful low, low tide so were able to hike the distance out to Pesuta completely along the beach. East beach starts in Tlell and stretches out for 65 kilometres. We were told it is the longest beach in Canada and after hiking to Petusa we were beginning to wonder how "Long Beach" on Vancouver Island got its name. The hike featured miles of ocean views, sand dunes and river crossings.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sand dunes line the trail to Petusa</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Crossing the Tlell River at low tide</td></tr>
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We hiked for the entire morning along that wonderful stretch of beach and did not see or hear a single, solitary person! We didn't even see a boat on the horizon.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The only 2 on the beach </td></tr>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-zRq7NPqQEg8/Vb-UJ5x-AuI/AAAAAAAAH7I/sO81OUvjEy0/s1600/DSCF2843.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Cycle Haida Gwaii" border="0" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-zRq7NPqQEg8/Vb-UJ5x-AuI/AAAAAAAAH7I/sO81OUvjEy0/s320/DSCF2843.JPG" title="Cycle Haida Gwaii" width="320" /></a></div>
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We spent some time exploring the shipwreck and then began the return trip to our campsite. As the tide was coming in we decided to take the inland forest trail back. As we were about to leave the beach and head in to the forest trail we had our first human sighting! A couple of brave camp counsellors were trekking with a bunch of kids. The group was embarking on an 89km hike to Tow Hill. The counsellors were pumped...and the kids were already dragging their feet. I imagine there will be a few challenging moments ahead for the group.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-os0XvkCB_pQ/Vb-YBU-_4MI/AAAAAAAAH_A/oWIsXX2B9Hw/s1600/IMG_1926.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Cycle Haida Gwaii" border="0" height="213" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-os0XvkCB_pQ/Vb-YBU-_4MI/AAAAAAAAH_A/oWIsXX2B9Hw/s320/IMG_1926.JPG" title="Cycle Haida Gwaii" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Camp Counsellors leading the way</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Paw Power</td></tr>
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The rich forested area was a nice contrast to the beach hike and we thoroughly enjoyed the last few kilometres through the moss covered old growth forest. Really - a two for one type of hike. Now that's what we call a deal!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-szMNrsUeu7s/Vb-UJ8NMOpI/AAAAAAAAH7I/eVq4zHdrw9c/s1600/IMG_1952.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Cycle Haida Gwaii" border="0" height="213" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-szMNrsUeu7s/Vb-UJ8NMOpI/AAAAAAAAH7I/eVq4zHdrw9c/s320/IMG_1952.JPG" title="Cycle Haida Gwaii" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Second leg of the hike through old growth forest</td></tr>
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After procrastinating long enough it was time to pack up camp and head back south. We stopped for second breakfast at the <a href="http://www.haidagwaiitrader.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=134:crows-nest-cafe-a-country-store&catid=40:local-shops-a-services&Itemid=99">Crows Nest Cafe and Country Store</a>. We laughed as we bumped in to folk who had been paddling the Haida canoe during Skidegate Days. It was uncanny how after just a couple of weeks in Haida Gwaii we already were bumping in to "friends" at stops along the way. We were quickly becoming Island regulars.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The road home</td></tr>
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We took the last few kilometres to Queen Charlotte City slowly, making excuses to stop at each and every lookout, roadside pull out and empty lot. Neither of us wanted the trip to end. I expect Haida Gwaii has this effect on many of those who visit.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-61UmIt1eVOE/Vb-b56swOYI/AAAAAAAAIA4/N-yFrP5W568/s1600/DSCF2894.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Cycle Haida Gwaii" border="0" height="218" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-61UmIt1eVOE/Vb-b56swOYI/AAAAAAAAIA4/N-yFrP5W568/s320/DSCF2894.JPG" title="Cycle Haida Gwaii" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Thank you Haida Gwaii</td></tr>
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<b><u>Giggle of the Day:</u></b><br />
<b><u><br /></u></b>Near Lawn Hill we came across a carved Madonna at a road side pullout. The carving was beside a spring called St. Mary's Spring. It is said that whoever drinks the pure water from the spring will return to the islands.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-7LJ-eoEbXNA/Vb-UJ7d2vPI/AAAAAAAAH9U/23yhxDRtcoo/s1600/IMG_1966.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Cycle Haida Gwaii" border="0" height="204" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-7LJ-eoEbXNA/Vb-UJ7d2vPI/AAAAAAAAH9U/23yhxDRtcoo/s320/IMG_1966.JPG" title="Cycle Haida Gwaii" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Carving at St. Mary's Spring</td></tr>
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Excited at the thought of having an excuse to return to the islands we quickly grabbed our water bottles and approached the stream. We were just about to fill up when we noticed a government sign..... an unusual and funny blend of island legend meeting health codes. We will let you wonder if we drank the water or not!<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-RkeCDD6YqNM/Vb-UJyrnY5I/AAAAAAAAH7o/twJwjPE9qL8/s1600/DSCF2884.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Cycle Haida Gwaii" border="0" height="263" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-RkeCDD6YqNM/Vb-UJyrnY5I/AAAAAAAAH7o/twJwjPE9qL8/s320/DSCF2884.JPG" title="Cycle Haida Gwaii" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Drinking water advisory</td></tr>
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<b><u><br /></u></b> <b><u>Map and Route Tips:</u></b><br />
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<a href="http://www.env.gov.bc.ca/bcparks/explore/parkpgs/naikoon/hiking.html">Pesuta Shipwreck Trail</a> - best to hike at low tide<br />
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#HaidaGwaii #CycleBC #explorebc #cycletour #gohaidagwaii #myopus #pesutashipwreck #hike #northernbc #parkscanadaJane and Robhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09284062943939465883noreply@blogger.com0Graham Island, British Columbia, Canada53.4317595 -132.2621738000000352.22726 -134.84396080000002 54.636258999999995 -129.68038680000004tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5570971587894793541.post-47519146090445850272015-08-01T08:50:00.000-07:002019-01-21T14:25:13.627-08:00Day 16 - Sandspit to Tlell, Haida Gwaii - Back on the Bikes<h2>
<b><u>Day 16 - Sandspit to Tlell</u></b></h2>
Back on the bikes - 56km<br />
<b><u><br /></u></b> After four fabulous days of floating and bloating it was time to get back on the bikes. We felt sad leaving Emma and Sandspit, but it was time to move on. We bid farewell and set off for the ferry, making a quick stop at Onward Point to look for whales.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-QVVtc7qRA8k/VbprN82oUFI/AAAAAAAAH4U/IVYjtDtFTEs/s1600/DSCF2827.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Graham Island, Haida Gwaii, British Columbia, Canada" border="0" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-QVVtc7qRA8k/VbprN82oUFI/AAAAAAAAH4U/IVYjtDtFTEs/s320/DSCF2827.JPG" title="Graham Island, Haida Gwaii, British Columbia, Canada" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Onward Point, Moresby Island</td></tr>
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As we were cycling out of Sandspit an approaching car slowed. The driver rolled down the window and cautioned us that a bear was up ahead on the road.<br />
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I am working hard to overcome my fear of bears, but the driver did not say exactly where up ahead the bear was lurking and as I peddled along I had visions of bears attacking at each bend. I stopped to pull out my whistle and find the bear bangers. To Rob's amusement (or disgust?) I began to sing at the top of my lungs. If my singing doesn't scare a bear away, nothing will!<br />
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A couple of kilometers up the road, we finally saw him. I came to a complete and full stop. It seemed the prudent thing to do. The bear took a little run at an approaching car, gave us a disinterested look and then scampered in to the forest. We would like to share a picture of the bear with you, but honestly, when you round the bend on your bike and encounter a bear, your first instinct is not to reach for the camera. We waited a long while for the bear to move on and for my heart rate to return to normal.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-woN15cxrXx8/VbprN9qmPXI/AAAAAAAAH4s/wh71RIXQ1-Y/s1600/DSCF2836.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Graham Island, Haida Gwaii, British Columbia, Canada" border="0" height="272" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-woN15cxrXx8/VbprN9qmPXI/AAAAAAAAH4s/wh71RIXQ1-Y/s320/DSCF2836.JPG" title="Graham Island, Haida Gwaii, British Columbia, Canada" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Welcome to Skidegate</td></tr>
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After the short ferry crossing to Graham Island we set our sights on <a href="http://www.gohaidagwaii.ca/our-communities/skidegate">Skidegate</a>. It was the annual Skidegate Days Celebration featuring a marathon, canoe races, fish splitting competition, salmon dinner and Grand Finale Dance. We stopped to take in the action and while we were eating dinner we ran in to David, a young guy who had been volunteering with Moresby Explorers. David is from St. Louis, Missouri. We asked how he managed to find his way to Haida Gwaii. We loved his answer. His father had given him a Lonely Planet book and David's mission was to visit all of the "cool places" he had read about. David was spending a few more days on the Island and then making his way further north. I silently wondered if his Dad ever regretted gifting the book to David.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-w70YN9NGR2s/VbprNw_w61I/AAAAAAAAH3I/0dBhkaPBXP8/s1600/IMG_1802.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Graham Island, Haida Gwaii, British Columbia, Canada" border="0" height="213" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-w70YN9NGR2s/VbprNw_w61I/AAAAAAAAH3I/0dBhkaPBXP8/s320/IMG_1802.JPG" title="Graham Island, Haida Gwaii, British Columbia, Canada" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Northbound on Graham Island</td></tr>
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We learned that the Skidegate Days Grand Finale dance was sold out, so it was an easy decision to point north and head for Tlell. We took time out to visit Balance Rock, another one of Haida Gwaii's spiritual wonders.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-3NXTsoGlhUo/VbprN0R7CKI/AAAAAAAAH3I/y2M-YUsyQv4/s1600/IMG_1789.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Graham Island, Haida Gwaii, British Columbia, Canada" border="0" height="213" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-3NXTsoGlhUo/VbprN0R7CKI/AAAAAAAAH3I/y2M-YUsyQv4/s320/IMG_1789.JPG" title="Graham Island, Haida Gwaii, British Columbia, Canada" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Balance Rock</td></tr>
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We enjoyed a flat, easy ride along the coast to TLell, population 179. We were both glad for a short and easy ride as our bodies were highly tuned in to floating and bloating versus cycling. I am afraid it may take a few days to get our cycling legs back. Our home for the night was in the Misty Meadows campground located in <a href="http://www.env.gov.bc.ca/bcparks/explore/parkpgs/naikoon/">Naikoon Provincial Park</a>.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-keTDeNfkWZQ/VbpsH7qnbnI/AAAAAAAAH3k/5cXzz9h61gM/s1600/DSCF2874.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Graham Island, Haida Gwaii, British Columbia, Canada" border="0" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-keTDeNfkWZQ/VbpsH7qnbnI/AAAAAAAAH3k/5cXzz9h61gM/s320/DSCF2874.JPG" title="Graham Island, Haida Gwaii, British Columbia, Canada" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Misty Meadows - Naikoon Provincial Park</td></tr>
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Naikoon is bordered by a hundred kilometres of expansive beach. Rainforest, wetlands, bogs and sand dunes make up the area. We pitched the tent, hung our food to keep it away from curious and hungry bears and enjoyed a fabulous evening by the ocean. We had the entire beach to ourselves.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AQLkU-aFCBI/VbprNxLW8RI/AAAAAAAAH3E/g_aNxfWbl4Q/s1600/IMG_1824.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Graham Island, Haida Gwaii, British Columbia, Canada" border="0" height="213" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AQLkU-aFCBI/VbprNxLW8RI/AAAAAAAAH3E/g_aNxfWbl4Q/s320/IMG_1824.JPG" title="Graham Island, Haida Gwaii, British Columbia, Canada" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Back to basics....peanut butter and granola</td></tr>
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<b><u>Giggle of the Day:</u></b><br />
<b><u><br /></u></b> True confession time! Rob and I are "culturally challenged." It is not that we don't have an appreciation for the arts, culture and history, but when push comes to shove we always choose to be outside cycling, hiking or paddling during our vacations. However, we made an exception on this trip. Everyone we met encouraged us to visit the <a href="http://haidaheritagecentre.com/">Haida Heritage Centre at Kay Llnagaay</a>. This 50,000 square foot space features the Haida Gwaii Museum, Performance House, Carving Shed, Canoe House, Bill Reid Teaching Centre, classrooms and a bistro. A must see!<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_niRFQdgmxQ/VbpqV6MX_HI/AAAAAAAAH1o/IDa5AFnYzo0/s1600/IMG_1972.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Graham Island, Haida Gwaii, British Columbia, Canada" border="0" height="213" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_niRFQdgmxQ/VbpqV6MX_HI/AAAAAAAAH1o/IDa5AFnYzo0/s320/IMG_1972.JPG" title="Graham Island, Haida Gwaii, British Columbia, Canada" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Haida Heritage Centre at Kay Llangaay</td></tr>
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Fascinated by our stops at the Haida Villages in Gwaii Haanas, we decided to visit the Heritage Centre to learn more about the Haida culture. We paid our admission and eyeglasses in hand (yes - we were serious enough about our visit to take our glasses with us!) we began our tour of this award winning museum.<br />
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As we stopped to view one of the displays we were cautiously approached by a Museum staff member. "Could I ask a favour?" she said. "Of course!" We replied.<br />
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Part of the Skidegate Days festivities included a canoe race. Before we knew it, we were outside the museum, waist deep in the ocean, helping paddlers bring a traditionally constructed Haida canoe up on shore! So much for our museum tour.<br />
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These are not small boats and it took a few attempts to get the beast up on the beach. Icing on the cake - we were being filmed by the German documentary film makers we had meet a few days earlier at Rose Harbour. We continue to be surprised at how many people we bump in to that we have seen before.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-QPMLHJsXeZI/VbprNzjQiNI/AAAAAAAAH3I/EIkqeimvbGw/s1600/IMG_1777.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-QPMLHJsXeZI/VbprNzjQiNI/AAAAAAAAH3I/EIkqeimvbGw/s320/IMG_1777.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Paddlers return after a first place finish in the Skidegate Days Canoe Race</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-TQiu-_G2Mp0/VbprNzgu8zI/AAAAAAAAH3I/NDXQftSKUIw/s1600/IMG_1780.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-TQiu-_G2Mp0/VbprNzgu8zI/AAAAAAAAH3I/NDXQftSKUIw/s320/IMG_1780.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Teamwork was needed to land this canoe!</td></tr>
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<b><u>Map and Route Tips:</u></b><br />
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#HaidaGwaii #CycleBC #explorebc #cycletour #gohaidagwaii #myopusJane and Robhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09284062943939465883noreply@blogger.com1Skidegate, BC V0T, Canada53.2665 -131.9913153999999631.847261500000002 -173.29990939999996 74.6857385 -90.682721399999963tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5570971587894793541.post-25610553614768959642015-07-30T12:23:00.001-07:002019-01-21T14:25:00.423-08:00Day 15 Floating Lodge to Sandspit<h2>
<b>Day 15 - Floating Lodge to Sandspit</b></h2>
<b><br /></b> "Humanity has a need for places to expand beyond the dimensions of the day to day grind and to fortify the body, mind, and other spirit - places for our ancestors and those that follow us. Gwaii Haanas provides people with such a tombstone." Excerpt from Gwaii Haanas Strategic Management Plan<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5iI7M4mPKSo/VblEWjcXVsI/AAAAAAAAHys/exYABLf5eX8/s1600/IMG_1701.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Tanu Gwaii Haanas" border="0" height="255" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5iI7M4mPKSo/VblEWjcXVsI/AAAAAAAAHys/exYABLf5eX8/s320/IMG_1701.JPG" title="Tanu Gwaii Haanas" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A picture of contentment</td></tr>
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We started our day with a wonderful low tide enabling us to visit the now exposed underwater world on the northern tip of Shuttle Island. The marine ecosystems of Gwaii Haanas are home to a wide variety of sea life. Think of your local beach on steroids! We pulled ashore and spent the morning exploring the intertidal zone:<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Jpm1p85vUoM/VblEWv14FOI/AAAAAAAAHxQ/iA9qakaP8sA/s1600/IMG_1662.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Intertidal life in Haida Gwaii" border="0" height="213" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Jpm1p85vUoM/VblEWv14FOI/AAAAAAAAHxQ/iA9qakaP8sA/s320/IMG_1662.JPG" title="Intertidal life in Haida Gwaii" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_bPWQE69lBc/VblEWuWIeDI/AAAAAAAAHxQ/fF0F4UDgR6A/s1600/IMG_1664.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Intertidal life in Haida Gwaii" border="0" height="213" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_bPWQE69lBc/VblEWuWIeDI/AAAAAAAAHxQ/fF0F4UDgR6A/s320/IMG_1664.JPG" title="Intertidal life in Haida Gwaii" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-q3zxWoazzfw/VblEWjQvw8I/AAAAAAAAHyE/k-1xoaxRPEU/s1600/IMG_1670.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Intertidal life in Haida Gwaii" border="0" height="213" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-q3zxWoazzfw/VblEWjQvw8I/AAAAAAAAHyE/k-1xoaxRPEU/s320/IMG_1670.JPG" title="Intertidal life in Haida Gwaii" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
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The last stop of our tour was at T'aanuu Linagaay (Tanu) a Haida village site on Tanu Island. We were delighted to meet Walter, Mary and their darling daughter Raven, maybe the youngest and cutest of the Haida Watchmen. Walter lead on us on a wonderful tour. His calm and gentle demeanour seemed to suit the island perfectly.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-T2lsqirsdq0/VblEWnamMxI/AAAAAAAAHxM/ZlZhglNYlZA/s1600/DSCF2776.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Haida Watchmen Program - Tanu" border="0" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-T2lsqirsdq0/VblEWnamMxI/AAAAAAAAHxM/ZlZhglNYlZA/s320/DSCF2776.JPG" title="Haida Watchmen Program - Tanu" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Walter - Haida Watchman</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ZCiLSElbMmU/VblEWjfa4iI/AAAAAAAAHxQ/1fRlfRPOzMY/s1600/DSCF2766.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Haida Watchmen Program - Tanu" border="0" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ZCiLSElbMmU/VblEWjfa4iI/AAAAAAAAHxQ/1fRlfRPOzMY/s320/DSCF2766.JPG" title="Haida Watchmen Program - Tanu" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Raven and Mary - Haida Watchmen</td></tr>
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After his death in 1998, world famous artist Bill Reid's ashes were brought home by friends and relatives to Tanu, his mother's ancestral village. Little is left standing at Tanu, but you feel the spirit of the place as you gaze at the house depressions and moss covered posts.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cXBUsXPYhfQ/VblG1UBUilI/AAAAAAAAHx8/Ut-rZGVL-qM/s1600/DSCF2768.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Tanu Haida Gwaii" border="0" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cXBUsXPYhfQ/VblG1UBUilI/AAAAAAAAHx8/Ut-rZGVL-qM/s320/DSCF2768.JPG" title="Tanu Haida Gwaii" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tanu</td></tr>
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Our return leg to Moresby Camp took us through Louise Narrows and provided us with our first bear sighting. The black bears on Haida Gwaii are a subspecies found only on the islands. They have larger jaws and teeth than their mainland counterparts. I confess that I have an unfounded and intense fear of bears, so I was quite happy to be bear watching from the Zodiac and not from my bike. Haida traditions consider the bear to be chief of the forest....I totally agree, and am happy to get out of the way! Hail to the Chief!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">First bear sighting</td></tr>
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After four awe-inspiring days we arrived back at Moresby Camp. Each of us took something different away from our exploration of Gwaii Haanas, but I think we would all agree that Haida Gwaii is a place unlike any other in the world.<br />
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<b><u>Giggle of the Day:</u></b><br />
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Our return to Sandspit was cause for celebration! We were invited to join the Moresby staff team at their favourite local and only Chinese Food Restaurant - Dick's Wok Inn. We were welcomed by Dick himself who cooked us up a delicious meal. Rob and I sat back and listened as the Moresby folk joked, teased and compared stories of their most recent tours. The energy, passion and enthusiasm of the group was something to admire....it was evident that they love their jobs, this magical place and I would suggest each other. They all seem to share a deep connection to Haida Gwaii and the three realms of creatures: those of the sea, those of the land and those of the sky. Not really something to giggle about, but definitely something that makes one smile.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-SMmoMCaKcSk/VblBsBwgufI/AAAAAAAAHug/JZvl5x3LT3U/s1600/dicks%2Bwok%2Binn%2Bsandspit.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Dicks Wok Inn Sandspit BC" border="0" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-SMmoMCaKcSk/VblBsBwgufI/AAAAAAAAHug/JZvl5x3LT3U/s320/dicks%2Bwok%2Binn%2Bsandspit.jpg" title="Dicks Wok Inn Sandspit BC" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dick's Wok Inn</td></tr>
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<b><u><br /></u></b> <b><u>Map and Route Tips:</u></b><br />
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<iframe height="480" src="https://www.google.com/maps/d/embed?mid=zgp8p1svd9sM.kmCbbm-8pt3s" width="520"></iframe>
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#HaidaGwaii #CycleBC #explorebc #cycletour #gohaidagwaii #myopus #gwaiihaanas #tanu #haidaJane and Robhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09284062943939465883noreply@blogger.com0Haida Gwaii, Skeena-Queen Charlotte E, BC, Canada52.656235 -131.8117734999999651.424215000000004 -134.39356049999995 53.888255 -129.22998649999997tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5570971587894793541.post-81999405679763375932015-07-29T08:04:00.002-07:002019-01-21T14:24:51.138-08:00Day 14 Rose Harbour to Floating Lodge, Visit to SGang Gwaay<h2>
<b><u>Day 14 Rose Harbour to Floating Lodge</u></b></h2>
<b><u><br /></u></b> We woke early to explore the beach at low tide and then joined our group for a fabulous gourmet breakfast prepared by Susan, featuring pancakes and berries fresh from her garden. Last night, Emma had helped to prepare the flour for the pancakes by grinding the grain on a contraption made from an exercise bike. It gave a whole new meaning to fresh ingredients!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Part of the Moresby Explorers Fleet</td></tr>
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Tummies full, we loaded ourselves into the Zodiac ready for another day of exploration in Gwaii Haanas. Today our plan was to visit SGang Gwaay, a sacred Haida site located on Anthony Island. SGang Gwaay was declared a United Nations Education and Science Organization (UNESCO) World Heritage Site in 1981. On SGang Gwaay many hundreds of Haida people died and were put to rest in caves, mortuary poles and in the earth.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">SGang Gwaay</td></tr>
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It was humbling to walk through the village remains. I felt like we were intruding and a deep sense of sorrow came over me. The poles face the sea and seem to stare off into the distance ignoring our presence. Many of the poles on SGang Gwaay are mortuary poles and are believed to hold the spirit of the deceased.<br />
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We were guided through the village by James, a Haida Watchman. The Haida Watchmen program began in 1981 as a means to protect the villages and traditional territory. From May to September, Watchmen live at the village sites and serve as guardians to protect the area. Visitors must ask for permission before landing.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">James describes the poles at SGang Gwaay</td></tr>
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James was very knowledgeable and shared information about the memorial, frontal and mortuary poles. He showed us the remnants of longhouses and house pits and shared information on the history of the Raven and Eagle moieties. He was passionate about his heritage and culture and we left believing that the village was in good hands with James as its caretaker. SGang Gwaay made a lasting impact on all of us and we were subdued as we left the island.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Emma reflects upon our visit to SGang Gwaay</td></tr>
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Our return to the Float Camp took us through Burnaby Narrows, famous for its rich intertidal life. We explored shallow coves and once again took in the beauty of the area.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bald Eagles are common in Haida Gwaii</td></tr>
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It was a glorious, sunny afternoon and we enjoyed time at the Float Camp exploring the sea below....imagine a huge aquarium "touch tank." We all lay face down on the float, transfixed by the world below.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bums up and Heads Down - underwater exploration</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nudibranch</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Eggyolk Jelly</td></tr>
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We were encouraged by the Moresby staff to get up at midnight and venture out on the float to witness bioluminescence. Science defines bioluminescence as an organism's ability to produce light through a chemical reaction, but to us - it was pure MAGIC! We lay on the dock and dipped our hands and kayak paddles into the water. Immediately a world of light exploded in front of our eyes. We were reminded of the fireflies in the deep south as we watched this weird and wonderful light show. I have no idea how long we were on the dock.....time didn't seem to matter.<br />
<b><u><br /></u></b> <b><u><br /></u></b> <b><u>Giggle of the Day:</u></b><br />
<b><u><br /></u></b> Yesterday, Heron had set two large prawn traps in the cove near the Floating Lodge. On our return to the lodge we stopped to retrieve the traps and survey our catch. We were all imagining what Mariel might create for dinner with fresh prawns. (hard to believe, but we were once again thinking about food!) Anxiously, we all hung over the sides of the Zodiac as Heron, with a little help from Rob, pulled in 600 feet of line. After much effort, Heron pulled out the two traps....not a prawn to be seen. Heron declared, "That's the absolute worst prawn catch I have ever had! Good thing I am not a fishing guide."<br />
<b><u><br /></u></b> <b><u><br /></u></b> <b><u><br /></u></b> <b><u>Map and Route Tips:</u></b><br />
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<iframe height="480" src="https://www.google.com/maps/d/embed?mid=zgp8p1svd9sM.k0jwH-GprGpU" width="520"></iframe>
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#HaidaGwaii #CycleBC #explorebc #cycletour #gohaidagwaii #myopus #GwaiiHaanas #marine #haida #UNESCOJane and Robhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09284062943939465883noreply@blogger.com0SGang Gwaay, Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve and Haida Heritage Site, Skeena-Queen Charlotte E, BC V0T, Canada52.098017 -131.2164973999999830.678772 -172.52509139999998 73.517262 -89.907903399999981tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5570971587894793541.post-66161920186785028452015-07-27T17:44:00.000-07:002019-01-21T14:24:39.312-08:00Day 13 Floating Lodge to Rose Harbour<h2>
<b>Day 13 - Floating Lodge to Rose Harbour, Gwaii Haanas</b></h2>
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<b>WOW!</b></h2>
Today was a day that I had imagined and hoped for. Haida Gwaii has been on our wish list for years, and in my imagination I pictured the ancient Haida villages, the poles and wildlife encounters, but today surpassed all that I had imagined or could possibly imagine.<br />
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Conditions were absolutely perfect, maybe better than perfect! Heron informed us that the type of conditions we had today were very rare and we all felt that we should take advantage of this gift and take Emma and Heron up on their offer to travel to Cape St. James at the very southern most point of the islands.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-gPhd0oz_P4c/VbamkT-cqlI/AAAAAAAAHh4/3eVLMw2nGLU/s1600/IMG_1189.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Cycle Tour to Haida Gwaii Rose Harbour" border="0" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-gPhd0oz_P4c/VbamkT-cqlI/AAAAAAAAHh4/3eVLMw2nGLU/s320/IMG_1189.JPG" title="Cycle Tour to Haida Gwaii Rose Harbour" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We are going to the Cape!</td></tr>
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Spirits high, gas in the tank and the sun shining we set out for the Cape, but not before we took time out of our very busy schedule to set a couple of prawn traps. Hard to believe, but we were thinking of food again!<br />
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There really are no words to describe the feeling of excitement we had as took in the sights and sounds of this day. From Egg Yolk Jellies and Nudibranchs to Humpback Whales and Puffins the wildlife viewing was spectacular.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-R_m7S-Ceafw/VbatUHBpbXI/AAAAAAAAHnY/VGWvm96g7uQ/s1600/IMG_1310.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Whale Watching in Haida Gwaii" border="0" height="210" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-R_m7S-Ceafw/VbatUHBpbXI/AAAAAAAAHnY/VGWvm96g7uQ/s320/IMG_1310.JPG" title="Whale Watching in Haida Gwaii" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Countless whales</td></tr>
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We actually lost count of the number of whales we saw and were also privileged enough to see:<br />
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<ul>
<li>Puffin</li>
<li>Black Tailed Deer</li>
<li>By the Wind Sailor Jellyfish</li>
<li>Egg Yolk Jellies</li>
<li>Sun Fish</li>
<li>Blue Shark</li>
<li>Urchins</li>
<li>Guillemots</li>
<li>Cormorants</li>
<li>Auklets</li>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-udt-MUC0De0/VbaqIpJaMwI/AAAAAAAAHlA/Ie0w4Y6hJgE/s1600/puffin.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Puffin Haida Gwaii" border="0" height="320" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-udt-MUC0De0/VbaqIpJaMwI/AAAAAAAAHlA/Ie0w4Y6hJgE/s320/puffin.jpg" title="Puffin Haida Gwaii" width="279" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Puffin</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-zY0q6b9RwhQ/VbaqIvVgpxI/AAAAAAAAHmM/75ZMjw32EdM/s1600/bythewind.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="By the Wind Sailor Haida Gwaii" border="0" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-zY0q6b9RwhQ/VbaqIvVgpxI/AAAAAAAAHmM/75ZMjw32EdM/s320/bythewind.jpg" title="By the Wind Sailor Haida Gwaii" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">By the Wind Sailor</td></tr>
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The incredible list went on and on.....<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-137djssQesE/VbaqIjPTPiI/AAAAAAAAHiw/YKb3N725Erc/s1600/nudibranch.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Nudibranchs Haida Gwaii" border="0" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-137djssQesE/VbaqIjPTPiI/AAAAAAAAHiw/YKb3N725Erc/s320/nudibranch.jpg" title="Nudibranchs Haida Gwaii" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nudibranchs....all dressed up and nowhere to go?</td></tr>
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The land was not to be outdone by the wildlife. We entered Woodruff Bay where our guides carefully and skillfully navigated their way to one of the most beautiful beaches I have ever seen.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKL1S-5qEjdQpqmfUyywcSRjrLwki9Puz52cCHJKXOVsIIF88VO_8YEDRpyzsF_-a3pEx7heaSkN7ipmnZyYi6It83g7A5NfX1UEyiG6MDHpEJ1sD8nsBnlFzVXH_j3r_2ikZnN57etjDx/s1600/IMG_1205.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Woodruff Bay Haida Gwaii" border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKL1S-5qEjdQpqmfUyywcSRjrLwki9Puz52cCHJKXOVsIIF88VO_8YEDRpyzsF_-a3pEx7heaSkN7ipmnZyYi6It83g7A5NfX1UEyiG6MDHpEJ1sD8nsBnlFzVXH_j3r_2ikZnN57etjDx/s320/IMG_1205.JPG" title="Woodruff Bay Haida Gwaii" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Emma and Heron anchoring in Woodruff Bay</td></tr>
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The sandy beach stretches for kilometres and is pristine. You would think you were in the Caribbean....except for the Helly Hanson rain gear of course! It was sheer joy as we stripped off our heavy rain gear and boots and ran barefoot in the sand. Not another soul to be seen. This was definitely my favourite beach and one I will remember forever.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Heaven on earth</td></tr>
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We enjoyed another wonderful lunch at Woodruff Bay thanks to our gracious hosts and loaded, somewhat reluctantly, back in to the Zodiac. Our reluctance was misplaced, as before we knew it we were heading out to the Kerouard Islands to view a large Steller sea lion rookery. This breeding colony is a busy place. Over 600 breeding Steller sea lions use the Cape St. James rookery. They were a treat to watch, but NOT to smell. I believe we actually found something that was stinkier that our biking clothes!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-tX-3xzB-hT8/VbatUPoNFcI/AAAAAAAAHmI/5JOQzwoQi3M/s1600/IMG_1270.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Steller Sea Lion Rookery Haida Gwaii" border="0" height="213" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-tX-3xzB-hT8/VbatUPoNFcI/AAAAAAAAHmI/5JOQzwoQi3M/s320/IMG_1270.JPG" title="Steller Sea Lion Rookery Haida Gwaii" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Steller Sea Lion Rookery</td></tr>
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Content and tired from a long day on the water, it was time to head to the Rose Harbour Guest House, our accommodation for the evening. The guest house is owned and operated by Gotz, who immigrated to Canada in 1981 and has lived in Rose Harbour since 1983. Susan, who is Heron's mom, has also lived in Rose Harbour since 1983. She operates the meal service for the guests. Susan is an amazing chef and her gourmet creations feature fresh vegetables grown in her garden.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-AZDJylBLIho/VbatUC5TInI/AAAAAAAAHoI/oTmrCmKeHoQ/s1600/IMG_1359.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Rose Harbour Haida Gwaii" border="0" height="276" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-AZDJylBLIho/VbatUC5TInI/AAAAAAAAHoI/oTmrCmKeHoQ/s320/IMG_1359.JPG" title="Rose Harbour Haida Gwaii" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Susan's home at Rose Harbour</td></tr>
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We were fascinated, intrigued and touched by Rose Harbour. Located on the site of an old abandoned whaling station, the place oozed history.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-gbQA2plgDZ4/VbatUPYFvwI/AAAAAAAAHng/eXpZO73SuxE/s1600/IMG_1330.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Rose Harbour Haida Gwaii" border="0" height="213" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-gbQA2plgDZ4/VbatUPYFvwI/AAAAAAAAHng/eXpZO73SuxE/s320/IMG_1330.JPG" title="Rose Harbour Haida Gwaii" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Whaling Station Memorial</td></tr>
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Words like cute, eccentric, rustic, whimsical, character, creative, unique all come to mind when describing the guest house. As I toured the grounds and viewed the wood burning shower, I was taken back to my childhood and reminded of Caractacus Potts, the eccentric inventor in Chitty Chitty Bang Bang. We admired the ingenuity of our hosts. You really need to see this extraordinary place for yourself.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ADFbAPiQtSQ/VbatUOxGz4I/AAAAAAAAHoY/yxhtfWdgbw8/s1600/IMG_1381.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Rose Harbour Haida Gwaii" border="0" height="213" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ADFbAPiQtSQ/VbatUOxGz4I/AAAAAAAAHoY/yxhtfWdgbw8/s320/IMG_1381.JPG" title="Rose Harbour Haida Gwaii" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rose Harbour</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-HNl0mkwMN-A/Vbav3GqZy_I/AAAAAAAAHo0/9J_oscvKKY8/s1600/Smilebox_3812191722.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Rose Harbour Haida Gwaii" border="0" height="320" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-HNl0mkwMN-A/Vbav3GqZy_I/AAAAAAAAHo0/9J_oscvKKY8/s320/Smilebox_3812191722.jpg" title="Rose Harbour Haida Gwaii" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wood burning heated shower</td></tr>
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We accessed our room by climbing a steep set of stairs clutching the driftwood banister as we climbed. Our room also served as a hothouse and distillery. We loved it! The washrooms were outhouses, however, should you need to visit the facilities in the middle of the night and did not care for the long walk, Gotz did supply you with a bucket. The caveat.....those who use the bucket, clean the bucket! Enough said.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ZO-0J-ExXkI/VbatUP6dZbI/AAAAAAAAHnk/TMeWhcu0Fcg/s1600/IMG_1338.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Rose Harbour Haida Gwaii" border="0" height="213" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ZO-0J-ExXkI/VbatUP6dZbI/AAAAAAAAHnk/TMeWhcu0Fcg/s320/IMG_1338.JPG" title="Rose Harbour Haida Gwaii" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Main floor</td></tr>
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We were told the Moresby four day tour is sometimes affectionately called the "Float and Bloat". After devouring Susan's fantastic Halibut dinner we confirm that the nickname is well deserved. We have been treated to delicious meals and snacks at every stop. It is going to be very difficult to go back to a can of beans over our camp stove!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-AbRYXJGdX3A/VbatULdlwsI/AAAAAAAAHnw/EynKvlVQImM/s1600/IMG_1370.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Rose Harbour Haida Gwaii" border="0" height="213" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-AbRYXJGdX3A/VbatULdlwsI/AAAAAAAAHnw/EynKvlVQImM/s320/IMG_1370.JPG" title="Rose Harbour Haida Gwaii" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Appetizers with a flare from Susan's garden</td></tr>
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<b><u>Giggle of the Day:</u></b><br />
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During our stay at Rose Harbour, we shared the facilities with a film crew from Germany. They were touring Canada as part of a series on our National Parks. Despite the majestic beauty of Haida Gwaii, the German crew found our host, Gotz equally, if not more fascinating. Gotz had constructed an amazing tripod ladder system to support his cherry picking endeavours. As we wandered about, we stumbled upon the camera crew attempting to film Gotz up the ladder!<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-TB2C8BEtZ1U/VbatUF9F4kI/AAAAAAAAHno/BFSrX2ZJDyg/s1600/IMG_1351.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Rose Harbour Haida Gwaii" border="0" height="213" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-TB2C8BEtZ1U/VbatUF9F4kI/AAAAAAAAHno/BFSrX2ZJDyg/s320/IMG_1351.JPG" title="Rose Harbour Haida Gwaii" width="320" /></a></div>
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<b><u>Map and Route Tips:</u></b><br />
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<iframe height="480" src="https://www.google.com/maps/d/embed?mid=zgp8p1svd9sM.kl6hATLSl-M8" width="520"></iframe> #HaidaGwaii #CycleBC #explorebc #cycletour #gohaidagwaii #myopus #roseharbour #zodiac #imagesofcanadaJane and Robhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09284062943939465883noreply@blogger.com0Cape Saint James, Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve and Haida Heritage Site, Skeena-Queen Charlotte E, BC V0T, Canada51.9358386 -131.0156061999999850.7038186 -133.59739319999997 53.167858599999995 -128.4338192tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5570971587894793541.post-36461551947104493692015-07-26T13:31:00.002-07:002019-01-21T14:24:29.106-08:00Day 12 Moresby Camp to Floating Lodge<h2>
<b><u>Day 12 Moresby Camp to Floating Lodge</u></b></h2>
<b><u><br /></u></b> To the south of Sandspit lies Gwaii Haanas, a National Park Reserve, National Marine Conservation Area Reserve and Haida Heritage Site. This national and international treasure is only accessible by boat or seaplane and we were excited to embark on our four day tour of the Islands with <a href="http://www.moresbyexplorers.com/">Moresby Explorers. </a><br />
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We met our group and set off for Moresby Camp, our launch site! Moresby Camp is an abandoned logging camp that has been redeveloped into a recreation site complete with outhouses, campsite and a boat launch. Our group consisted of our amazing guides, Heron (owner and all things Haida Gwaii) Emma, and fellow travellers Vera, Christine, Avril, Grant, Claire and Amanda. We gathered together and were issued our official waterproof, rainproof, for extreme conditions Helly Hanson Work Wear.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-u5f-vGjpEwM/VbU3ug6gK5I/AAAAAAAAHfI/KeFFc2O1Dk0/s1600/DSCF2427.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Zodiac tour in Haida Gwaii" border="0" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-u5f-vGjpEwM/VbU3ug6gK5I/AAAAAAAAHfI/KeFFc2O1Dk0/s320/DSCF2427.JPG" title="Zodiac tour in Haida Gwaii" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rob ready to get started!</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Helly Hanson Work Wear</td></tr>
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What a good looking group we were......<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-m6SuvT7nX4k/VbUsJvVaExI/AAAAAAAAHZE/yTfVeGzepQc/s1600/The%2BCrew_edited-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Zodiac tour in Haida Gwaii" border="0" height="265" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-m6SuvT7nX4k/VbUsJvVaExI/AAAAAAAAHZE/yTfVeGzepQc/s400/The%2BCrew_edited-1.jpg" title="Zodiac tour in Haida Gwaii" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Intrepid Crew</td></tr>
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Our first order of business was to master the Zodiac exit and entrance. Easy from the luxury of a dock but we were not quite as graceful when attempting to board on the beaches. Emma and Heron would work to keep the boat still while we flopped in and out like fish out of water. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Vera perfects the exit</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Emma paddles out to retrieve the Zodiac</td></tr>
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Our day was full and the scenery left us speechless! The coastal forests, thick with Sitka spruce, western hemlock and eastern red cedar dominate the islands. The trees are massive and you feel quite insignificant beside them. Because of the large black-tailed deer population the forest floors are thick with moss, as the deer have devoured the smaller shrubs and plants. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jane is dwarfed by the giants of the forest</td></tr>
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We stopped on Louise Island, the third biggest island on Haida Gwaii and explored an old logging camp. Old steam donkeys, equipment, bottles and leather boots littered the forest floor, reminders of days gone by.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Heron explains the history of the logging operation</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Time for a new pair of boots?</td></tr>
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The highlight of the day was a tour of Skedans, a Haida village site. The village was abandoned in the 1880's near the end of the smallpox epidemic. It was fascinating and moving to view the remains of the poles and houses. Each pole tells a story with its representation of human, animal and supernatural figures. They are now covered in moss and slowly decaying. I was struck by the way the forest was reclaiming the poles, almost in a protective and nurturing way. You can not help but feel the deep connection that the Haida people have for the land and nature and it is easy to see how Emily Carr was inspired to create some of her most loved paintings here. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Emma leads the way at Skedans</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The forest takes back the pole</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-arbgPUWKiYs/VbU18RLhDEI/AAAAAAAAHdo/CoVhXXNY12Q/s1600/DSCF2415.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Tour of Haida village Skedans" border="0" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-arbgPUWKiYs/VbU18RLhDEI/AAAAAAAAHdo/CoVhXXNY12Q/s320/DSCF2415.JPG" title="Tour of Haida village Skedans" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Remnants of a longhouse</td></tr>
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We were deeply moved by the visit to Skedans and this unique opportunity to learn about the Haida culture.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Potlatch rings visible on this Memorial Pole</td></tr>
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Our day ended on a high! We were spending the night at the Moresby Explorers' Floating Lodge located in a small remote cove. We rounded the bend to see this.....</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Floating Lodge</td></tr>
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As we arrived we were greeted by our amazing Chef, Mariel and float camp volunteer Amanda. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mariel, Emma and Amanda</td></tr>
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They had the fire on, appetizers ready and welcomed us with open arms. We enjoyed a lively dinner with our new friends, and then Rob and I noticed kayaks and managed to excuse ourselves. We enjoyed an evening paddle - what a treat! The silence was palpable, and it almost felt intrusive to dip our paddles in the water. It was a magical moment....one we will never forget! </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We couldn't resist the opportunity to paddle</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We found our pot of gold in Haida Gwaii</td></tr>
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<b><u>Giggle of the Day:</u></b><br />
<b><u><br /></u></b> Gwaii Haanas is the first protected area in the world that is managed form the top of the mountains to the bottom of the sea as one integrated and connected space. We were extremely excited about the wildlife viewing opportunities this special area presents - the Galapagos of the North so to speak! However, our first wildlife encounter was not quite what we expected. We donned our rain gear and were heading to the boat ramp to begin our adventure when nature called. It was decidedly time for one last visit to the outhouse. Rob got straight to business and as luck would have it found himself sharing the facility with a wasp's nest. After two little stings and a quick exit, Rob was ready to launch!<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-iyQyOzJSURA/VbUn8RdcyLI/AAAAAAAAHVA/d78IIAT-OSc/s1600/DSCF2375.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Moresby Camp Haida Gwaii" border="0" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-iyQyOzJSURA/VbUn8RdcyLI/AAAAAAAAHVA/d78IIAT-OSc/s320/DSCF2375.JPG" title="Moresby Camp Haida Gwaii" width="320" /></a></div>
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p.s. we noticed on our return to Moresby Camp, the outhouse had been closed and caution tape was wrapped around the door. Thanks to Rob for taking one for the team!<br />
<b><u><br /></u></b> <b><u>Map and Route Tips:</u></b><br />
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Gwaii Haanas is only accessible by boat or seaplane.<br />
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A list of licensed tour operators and other information can be found on the Parks Canada website at <a href="http://www.pc.gc.ca/gwaiihaanas">www.pc.gc.ca/gwaiihaanas</a> Of course, our favourite guides are at <a href="http://www.morsebyexplorers.ca/">Moresby Explorers!</a><br />
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An orientation session is required for all visitors before entering Gwaii Haanas. Those planning to visit without a guide must make reservations and purchase a visitor permit.<br />
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#HaidaGwaii #CycleBC #explorebc #cycletour #gohaidagwaii #myopus #northernbc #zodiak #paddleJane and Robhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09284062943939465883noreply@blogger.com0Moresby Camp, BC V0T, Canada53.048796 -132.031931.629564500000004 -173.340494 74.4680275 -90.723306000000008tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5570971587894793541.post-3488505671102231322015-07-25T10:08:00.001-07:002019-01-21T14:24:13.727-08:00Day 11 Gray Bay<h2>
<b>Day 11 Gray Bay - Morseby Island</b></h2>
<b><br /></b> To say we received a warm welcome from the <a href="http://moresbyexplorers.com/index.html" target="_blank">Morseby Explorers</a> staff team is the understatement of the year. We instantly felt like family and much credit must be given to the company owners, Laura and Heron. They are an amazing couple and together have created something very special, something more than just a 'business". Both Laura and Heron have an intimate knowledge of the islands and a passion for sharing this knowledge. It was such an honour to meet them and to be their guests.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Morseby Explorers Office</td></tr>
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Laura gave us a tour of their home and we delighted in viewing their garden, shop, kayak storage area, outdoor store, pig pen......as you can see it is an impressive operation!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Garden </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pig Pen</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ducks</td></tr>
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We took a day to explore Morseby Island and as luck would have it, Emma had time off. Thrilled to have a personal tour of the area, we asked Emma to show us her favourite spots. We managed to pick up picnic supplies in Sandspit and set off for Gray Bay.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gray Bay</td></tr>
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Gray Bay is a spectacular crescent shaped beach featuring a campground set among an alder, spruce and hemlock forest. The beach is gorgeous and we spent the morning beach combing.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Beach Combing - Gray Bay</td></tr>
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Of course, Emma couldn't resist a quick dip!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Come on in...the water is fine!</td></tr>
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Just when you think you can't find a nicer beach or more scenic spot - you do! We left Gray Bay and spent the afternoon at Secret Cove, a secluded pebble beach. Once again we were left speechless at the sheer beauty of this place. We had the beach to ourselves and quickly lost all track of time. I would suggest this loss of time is a type of occupational hazard for all those who venture to Haida Gwaii.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rob quickly adapts to the slower pace of life in Haida Gwaii</td></tr>
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We were invited to share dinner with the Moresby staff team and enjoyed an evening of laughter and stories. We did not want the day to end.<br />
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<b><br /></b> <b><br /></b> <b><u>Giggle of the Day:</u></b><br />
<b><u><br /></u></b> We settled in to our tent behind the <a href="http://moresbyexplorers.com/seaport.html" target="_blank">Seaport B and B</a>, nestled between the pigs and the ducks, anticipating a good sleep. We were looking forward to the start of our four day boat tour with Morseby Explorers. Just as we were dozing off a loud commotion woke us up. We stuck our heads out of the tent to see several staff members frantically rounding up chickens. They had somehow managed to "fly the coop" and a large Eagle was circling above looking forward to a tasty treat. All in a day's work.<br />
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<b><u>Map and Route Tips:</u></b><br />
<b><u><br /></u></b> Travel to Gray Bay is along active logging roads. The road is rough, so watch for potholes. The Visitor Centre in Sandspit can provide updates on road conditions and logging activity.<br />
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#HaidaGwaii #CycleBC #explorebc #cycletour #gohaidagwaii #myopusJane and Robhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09284062943939465883noreply@blogger.com0Sandspit, BC V0T, Canada53.243025 -131.82087931.823799500000003 -173.129473 74.6622505 -90.512284999999991tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5570971587894793541.post-46805162806024445742015-07-24T10:22:00.000-07:002019-01-21T14:23:59.014-08:00Day 10 Prince Rupert to Sandspit<h2>
<b><u>Day 10 - Prince Rupert to Sandspit, B.C.</u></b></h2>
93 nautical miles - 15 km cycling<br />
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Once again we found ourselves up bright and early waiting in line for a ferry. Only two more sailings to go and we would finally be in Haida Gwaii. We were only 40 miles south of the Alaska border with 93 nautical miles and 7 hours to go before we arrived on Graham Island.<br />
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As we waited to board we were joined by a feisty "old-timer" named Lou. What a gem! Lou is a very young 79 years and has been living on Graham Island for the last 45 years. He is a burly man and has quite an intimidating presence until he smiles. He rides a motorcycle and was dressed from head to toe in leather.<br />
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Lou is a wonderful storyteller and we enjoyed spending time with him as we waited to board the ferry. He knew almost everyone in line by name and shared jokes and updates with the crowd. We would soon learn that not much gets by people in Haida Gwaii, as the community is very close-knit and news travels fast.<br />
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Lou shared fantastic ferry stories and we were in stitches as he described storms, delays and exciting journeys across the Hecate Strait. This body of water is quite shallow and marine weather conditions can often be quite severe. Apparently, the locals affectionately (or not) call the ferry the Northern Misadventure and we were soon to experience our own.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">BC Ferries Northern Adventure connecting Prince Rupert to Skidegate Landing</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Not a bike rack to be seen....we are asked to tie the bikes down</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Barf Bags and Charging Station?</td></tr>
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The ferry was over one hour late leaving Prince Rupert as the crew took extra time loading in an attempt to squeeze every delivery truck, camper, motorcycle, car, bike and van on to the boat. It was an amazing puzzle and credit to the crew for their valiant efforts to accommodate everyone. Selfishly, we were becoming quite worried that we would miss our connecting ferry to Sandspit. No one else on the boat seemed worried as the majority were locals and on "island time." Just as we were sure we were going to miss our sailing, the ship's captain announced that they would hold the connecting ferry for us. We were amazed! We arrived in dock and the crew held back all of the walk on passengers and vehicles and gave us a personal escort off the boat and onto the next one. Thank you BC Ferries!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The crew holds the Kwuna Ferry for us</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Approach to Alliford Bay on Morseby Island</td></tr>
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The crossing to Morseby Island is very short and absolutely beautiful. We excitedly waited to disembark and before we knew it we were back on our bikes cycling the last few kilometres to Sandspit. We enjoyed a flat and easy ride and took a few moments to celebrate our arrival to the Edge of the World.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Only 2 km to go!</td></tr>
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<b><u>Giggle of the Day:</u></b><br />
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This isn't so much a giggle, but a tale of joy. After our long cycle and numerous, lengthy ferry crossings we finally rode up to the <a href="http://moresbyexplorers.com/index.html" target="_blank">Moresby Explorers</a> office in search of our daughter....and there she was having just returned from guiding a day tour. We found her washing the van.....and we would argue there isn't a prettier sight in all of Haida Gwaii.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Morseby Explorers Office</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Emma</td></tr>
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<b><u>Map and Route Tips:</u></b><br />
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BC Ferries - <a href="http://www.bcferries.com/onboard-experiences/fleet/profile-northern_adventure.html" target="_blank">Northern Adventure Ferry</a> - Prince Rupert to Skidegate, Graham Island - 93 nautical miles<br />
BC Ferries - <a href="http://www.bcferries.com/onboard-experiences/fleet/profile-kwuna.html" target="_blank">Kwuna Ferry</a> - Skidegate Landing to Alliford Bay, Moreseby Island<br />
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Alliford Bay to <a href="http://www.gohaidagwaii.ca/images/uploads/Final%20Sandspit_Map(1).pdf" target="_blank">Sandspit</a> - 10 km<br />
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#HaidaGwaii #CycleBC #explorebc #cycletour #gohaidagwaii #myopus #hecatestraitJane and Robhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09284062943939465883noreply@blogger.com0Prince Rupert, BC, Canada54.3150367 -130.3208187000000254.1666692 -130.6435422 54.4634042 -129.99809520000002tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5570971587894793541.post-8770074772800813732015-07-12T07:46:00.001-07:002019-01-21T14:23:22.188-08:00Day 9 Port Hardy to Prince Rupert on the Northern Expedition<h2>
<span style="color: rgba(0 , 0 , 0 , 0.701961); font-family: "uictfonttextstylebody"; font-size: 17px;"><b><u>Day 9 - Port Hardy to Prince Rupert on the Northern Expedition</u></b></span></h2>
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<b><u>522.8 km</u></b></div>
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<b style="background-color: yellow;">Total km cycled 1.8 :)</b></div>
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We arrived bright and early at the Port Hardy ferry terminal excited for our next leg. As we waited for the ferry we met a family from Klemtu, a remote coastal village. We chatted away with Grandma Rhonda and her delightful six year old grand daughter Nasi. Grandma Rhonda was born and has lived her whole live in Klemtu. Nasi was named after Vancouver Canuck Marcus Naslund and was a sheer joy to hang out with. She entertained us with her dances, stories and ability to count to 100 by 10's. </div>
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It was an eclectic group travelling on the ferry: Klemtu locals returning from a shopping spree in Campbell River, kayakers heading out on an adventure from Klemtu to Bella Bella, motorcyclists on a circle tour and of course bus loads and campers full of tourists from Europe. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Waiting to board BC Ferries, Northern Expedition</td></tr>
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We boarded the ferry and immediately felt like we were on a cruise ship. The Northern Expedition features cabins equipped with showers and TV's, lounges, a movie theatre, buffet, cafeteria, and most importantly front row seats to arguably some of the most spectacular scenery in the province. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Front row seats on the Northern Expedition</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Buffet dinner (with wine)</td></tr>
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I am unable to find words to describe the scenery and feel of the Inside Passage. The low coastal mountains tower above you as you weave your way through the narrow channels. The trees are a lush green and the forest is so dense that you can't see in further than a few feet. Low hanging cloud touches the trees and appears to hang on the branches creating a mystic feel to the area. The route is steeped in history and you find yourself being transported back in time as you pass numerous light houses, and old fishing, logging and mining areas. As you near Prince Rupert you travel through Grenville Channel, where mountains 1,500 to 3,500 feet surround you at a point where the channel narrows. We were told that occasionally you can see moose and deer swimming across the channel through these narrows which go for 70km. At the narrowest point the channel is 2.1km across. Incredible!</div>
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Speaking of wildlife viewing, the Humpback Whales did not disappoint. It became almost comical as the ship's Captain would announce a whale sighting and the passengers would sprint from port to starboard to catch a glimpse of these magnificent creatures. At one point, I was convinced the boat might tip as we all sprinted on mass to the starboard side. I am sure we looked ridiculous to the veteran crew.</div>
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We ended this glorious day on a high. There to meet us as we disembarked in Prince Rupert at 11pm was our son Ian and his friend Julie. They are on their own cycling vacation and our paths crossed. We enjoyed a couple of cold brews at their campsite and shared stories of our trips. They have the best and most epic ferry story to tell. It is theirs to share, so I will leave this as a cliff hanger, but should you run in to them be sure to ask about Hecate Strait, a tent, a ferry and a biker....... </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ian and Julie on their way home</td></tr>
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<b><u>Giggle of the Day:</u></b></div>
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Terrified we would miss the ferry, we set our alarm for the ungodly hour of 4:30am!!! The alarm went off to the music of Bon Jovi singing, "oh oh we're half way there, oh oh livin' on a prayer!" .... enough said!<br />
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#explorebc #bcferries #haidagwaii #cycle #cycletour #northernexpedition</div>
Jane and Robhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09284062943939465883noreply@blogger.com0Prince Rupert, BC, Canada54.3150367 -130.3208187000000254.1666692 -130.6435422 54.4634042 -129.99809520000002tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5570971587894793541.post-23143054516804153372015-07-11T04:36:00.000-07:002019-01-21T14:23:04.806-08:00Day 8 Telegraph Cove to Port Hardy<h2>
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66 km</div>
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Sunrise. We woke early to this amazing view!<br />
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Really - does it get much better than this? We put on our fleecies for the first time in 8 days to combat a slight, and I mean very slight chill in the air. We are still dumbfounded that we have cycled Vancouver Island from south to north without a drop of rain and without ever donning our long undies! While it has made for a very enjoyable vacation, we are seeing the effects of the heat and the drought every where we visit. Areas are beginning to close their parks and trails in an attempt to prevent fires. Thankfully, we are not prone to lightening strikes in this neck of the woods.</div>
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We were determined to get an early start out of Telegraph Cove. To call the road "bike friendly" is a gross exaggeration of the word friendly. The road twists, turns, has no shoulder and features very steep sections. Definitely better attempted in the early morning before the heat of the day.<br />
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Once we were back on the main highway we made great time and were feeling very optimistic. We stopped roadside to celebrate breaking the 50 mile marker to Port Hardy. The dream was alive and we were confident that come hell or high water we would make our ferry connection. We had just been chatting about the pressure a deadline creates, and how it is so difficult to time your ride due to changing weather conditions, terrain, mechanical problems, physical issues, etc. etc. In a cruel twist of fate, it happened. I flatted out! Now that is what I call irony.<br />
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Rob put his tiring changing skills to work and we were back on the road in no time flat. (pun intended!) We continued along Highway 19 or Bear Alley as the locals call it and soon found ourselves looking at a Prince Rupert ferry sign. We are booked on the 7am ferry. We have been told to arrive two hours early in order to claim our reservation. Concerned about riding in the dark, we decided to take a room at Bear Cove Cottages, only 1 km from the ferry terminal. Worst case, we figure we can ditch the gear and make a run for the boat.<br />
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As luck would have it, and good luck has certainly come our way this trip, the cottages are amazing! We arrived early in the afternoon, checked in, showered and set out on foot to explore the area. We stumbled in to Bear Cove Park and met Andrew, a DFO summer student. Andrew is an aspiring marine biologist and is tasked with greeting the fishermen as they pull in to dock, documenting their catch and taking samples.<br />
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The view from his office is to die for!</div>
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We continued on down to the marina and had the very good fortune of meeting Neeta. This wonderful lady runs the Bait and Tackle store and is a true gem! She asked if we would like to meet her eagle. Before we knew it, she had collected a fish head from one of the local fisherman and was calling to her friend. Within seconds, a magnificent bald eagle swooped down for a tasty treat.<br />
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Neeta, or the Eagle Whisperer as we affectionately called her, was very clear in stressing that she is careful not to feed the eagle too much as she does not want it to become dependent on her. As we chatted away, a crafty river otter popped up to get in on the action. It struck me how connected Neeta was to Nature. We had seen the news the other day, and a young girl in Vancouver was interviewed. She had vaguely heard something about a water restriction but had no idea there was a drought. On the flipside, Neeta shared stories of the eagles, their babies, the seagulls, the otters.......I could have listened to her all night.<br />
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Giggle of the day</div>
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Our 'master plan" was to cycle in to Port Hardy and purchase groceries to top up our supplies before our next leg to Haida. We grossly miscalculated the extra distance. It was another 20km to get our groceries and come back. Faced with another 20 km in the saddle or lounging on our deck watching cruise ships go by, we made an executive decision ...... pizza delivery!<br />
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#explorebc #cycle #cycletour #myopus #northisland</div>
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Jane and Robhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09284062943939465883noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5570971587894793541.post-86432564465366108142015-07-10T14:18:00.003-07:002019-01-21T14:22:46.205-08:00Day 7 Woss to Telegraph Cove<h2>
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81km</div>
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Awesome, Breathtaking, Inspiring, Majestic....I wish words could describe the beauty of today's ride. We were on the road really early in an attempt to beat the heat and were rewarded with forest views, miles of towering rock walls and glimpses of mountain ridges lining the Nimpkish Valley.</div>
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This valley is the largest watershed on Vancouver Island. The early morning light caught the stands of alder trees and created an almost magical effect.</div>
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The roads were really quiet, which was a blessing as we had little or no shoulder for most of the ride. It is always unsettling when a big Semi Truck or Logging truck screams by you and there is not a shoulder to escape on to. The miles came easily today and before we knew it we were at the turn off to Telegraph Cove.</div>
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We had pulled of to the side of the road for a quick "nibble" and were debating whether to turn off to Telegraph Cove or continue on to Port McNeil, when a truck pulled up and asked if we needed directions. We discussed our plight with the kind stranger who insisted we go to Telegraph Cove. He said we would absolutely love it and it was certainly a town that should not be missed. H Decision made we thanked him, and then as he pulled out he yelled, "but watch out for suicide hill!"</div>
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Suicide hill is right! We have visited Telegraph Cove before to launch kayaks, but neither of us remembered the hilly road in. The hills just aren't as much of an issue when you are in your car! It was a leg draining, heart pumping, lung bursting 15km in. We arrived and almost crawled in to the marina in search of a campsite. We are now nestled in an RV Park tucked neatly between the big rigs! On the bright side, earlier in the day a bear was roaming through the campsite and now our fellow campers are all watching out for us.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Notice the helicopter parked in the background...quicker access to the Cove!</td></tr>
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We spent a wonderful afternoon just bumming around the town. This historic village is located near the entrance to Johnstone Strait and a favourite destination for kayakers, wildlife viewers and sports fishing enthusiasts. During the second world war Telegraph Cove served as a military relay station. The area is quite enchanting. Whale watchers excitedly departed on their tours, fishers were cleaning their catch while the seagulls feasted on the scraps and kayakers paddled by. The historic wooden buildings and boardwalk have been restored and it is easy to loose a day just sitting on the dock people watching - which is exactly what we did! </div>
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Giggle of the day:</div>
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We rode in to our designated campsite and were just about to set up our tent, when a couple on bikes road up to us. We were hot, stinky, grumpy, exhausted and dripping sweat! I was actually surprised that the couple were brave enough to approach us. They had been out fishing for the morning and were now off on their bikes to explore the area. I suspect they had enjoyed a few liquid refreshments on their fishing boat, as they were struggling a bit to ride in a straight line. They said we looked like people who might have a bike pump....they had a flat tire and needed our help!</div>
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Jane and Robhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09284062943939465883noreply@blogger.com0Telegraph Cove, BC V0N, Canada50.5492459 -126.8322509999999925.027211400000002 -168.14084499999998 76.0712804 -85.523656999999986tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5570971587894793541.post-24088452954194188232015-07-09T06:33:00.000-07:002019-01-21T14:22:31.090-08:00Day 6 Roberts Lake to Woss <h2>
Day 6 - Roberts Lake to Woss</h2>
102 km<br />
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We did more than order a cinnamon bun! We visited the cafe, ordered up the Loggers Special and had a wonderful morning chatting with Lorna, chief cook and expert in residence for all things Robert Lake. This amazing Grandma has been cooking up breakies for the area loggers for over 40 years. Her cafe is full of knick knacks, old photos and memorabilia....all with a story behind them. She delighted us with her tales...and with her home-cooked goodies. A definite pit stop should you find yourself near Roberts Lake! Ask for Lorna, and be sure to give her dog Ruger a nibble.<br />
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What goes up must come down! After yesterday's long hill climb we were treated to an exhilarating descent. We felt great, the highway was good, shoulders quite wide, a few washboards to contend with but all in all good riding conditions. We cruised into the corner store in Sayward and treated ourselves to a lemonade. While lounging about we met our first gunsmith. When asked about his business he replied, "I got tired of fixing all of my friends and neighbours guns for free, so I started a business." Made sense.<br />
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Everyone in Sayward warned us about the upcoming climbs and we were feeling a little anxious about the road ahead. They were not exaggerating. The Sayward Canyon climb was tough, but once again on the downhill we were rewarded with panoramic mountain views. The area is beautiful! Not the route to choose if you are looking for towns, shops and cafes, but for us it was a joy to be cycling mile after mile in the forests. There are numerous clearcut areas. Clearly logging is a huge part of the local economy.<br />
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We were beginning another long climb up to Hoomac Lake. It was gruelling! We were forced to get off and walk at times as the effect of the heat and the climb was beginning to tax our legs. We were quite low on water and we were both getting cranky when we arrived at the rest stop to be greeted by an amazing young family. They were on vacation, touring the Island and curious about our bikes. We shared cycling stories, and joked about the "false flats", a crazy optical illusion in which the road appears flat but your legs scream hill! They generously filled our water bottles and shared a few energy treats with us. They told us the temperature was 33 degrees. I am 100 per cent positive that we will be happy to have our long johns and toques when we are on the zodiak in Haida Gwaii, but at that moment in time it seemed absolutely ridiculous to be hauling that extra weight up these hills.<br />
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We arrived at the turn to our intended campsite to be greeted by a 10km gravel road. We looked at each other in disbelief and made an easy decision to go another click on the paved highway and look for a room at the Rugged Mountain Inn.<br />
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Giggle of the Day<br />
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The Rugged Mountain Inn is also home to the Rugged Mountain Pub. In all honesty if you were driving by the place, you might be afraid to stop. However, we were thirsty and hungry and we figured at the very least the pub would have COLD beer. The menu was a bizarre mish mash of burgers, fries and sushi. We decided to roll the dice and order the sushi. No word of a lie....it was some of the best sushi we have ever had. The suishi chef has trained for years and recently immigrated to Canada, making Woss his new home. He was absolutely charming and we are confident he will make Woss the Sushi Capital of Vancouver Island.<br />
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#cycle #cycletour #explorebc #haidagwaiiJane and Robhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09284062943939465883noreply@blogger.com0Woss, BC V0N, Canada50.215414 -126.5893909999999824.693379500000002 -167.89798499999998 75.7374485 -85.280796999999978tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5570971587894793541.post-70643874035122284752015-07-08T19:06:00.002-07:002019-01-21T14:22:16.734-08:00Day 5 - Comox to Roberts Lake, BC<h2>
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I love the small town vibe! Charming, quaint - to me small towns represent something from our past. A time when we knew our neighbours, when we took time to say hello and when we took an interest in our community. I admit that I am probably looking at these towns through rose coloured glasses. Yes, problems do exist in small towns but for today I am feeling very positive about life in a small town and wondering how and why life in the big city has become so fast paced and impersonal. Hmmmm - strange I keep singing "I was born in small town" by John Mellancamp.</div>
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We were barely two minutes into our ride when a dog walker gave us a huge wave and wished us a great trip. Several people waved and we had a couple of honks - I assume they were good luck honks and not get off the road honks. Good omens for sure.</div>
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We were both very excited because we were beginning to cycle new territory north of Comox. As we rounded a turn on our approach to Campbell River we had our first glimpse of the ocean for the day. It was uplifting! We increased our pace and arrived in Campbell River, the Salmon Capital of Canada, before we knew it.</div>
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As fortune would have it Campbell River had recently hosted the 19th Annual Chainsaw Carving competition, Transformations on the Shore, and the incredible works of art were still on display along the seaside trail. We were amazed at the beauty and workmanship of the carvings - true artists! My favourite was Beneath the Ice by Joel Palmer and Rob took a fancy to Scare the Crow by Cody Lafrance. </div>
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Leaving Campbell River we were faced with a long, slow, hot, 20km hill climb. The heat wave continues and we find ourselves facing temperatures in the 30's - very unusual for BC, especially this far north. I was reminded that I am not a fan of pedalling uphill. As luck would have it, just as our legs were giving out, we stumbled upon Tammy's Cafe and she was making some of the most delicious smoothies this side of Campbell River. The icing on the cake - a few kilometres from Tammy's we discovered fresh, cold spring water and took the opportunity to fill up our water bottles. The water was clear, clean and cold. Juiced up and at the top of the hill, we had a nice easy descent to Roberts Lake Resort...home for the night.<br />
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Giggle of the day:</div>
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I hate to sound like a broken record, but have I mentioned you can't beat local knowledge? On the Mill Bay ferry we were chatting with an Islander and inquiring about potential campsites north of Campbell River. She highly recommended Roberts Lake Resort and told us about the quaint cabins nestled beside the lake. She wasn't sure if they took tenters, but was convinced that the owners were good folk and would take us in. During our pit stop in Comox, Rob phoned ahead to the Resort inquiring about tents. When the owner learned we were on our bikes he said, "If you pedal here you can camp for free. Just buy one of my cinnamon buns." Local Knowledge!</div>
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#explorebc #cycletour #campbellriver #robertslake #bike #myopus<br />
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<br />Jane and Robhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09284062943939465883noreply@blogger.com0Comox, BC, Canada49.6735133 -124.9282658999999949.5913478 -125.08962739999998 49.755678800000005 -124.76690439999999tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5570971587894793541.post-35111759091086283312015-07-07T11:08:00.001-07:002019-01-21T14:22:02.843-08:00Day 4 - Ladysmith to Comox, BC<h2>
Day 4 - Ladysmith to Comox, BC</h2>
154 km<br />
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We woke to find the air quality even worse than yesterday. The haze was thick and the sun had a spooky look to it. It was unsettling to say the least. Our concerns grew worse as we cycled along the E and N Trail in Nanaimo. A fellow cyclist rode up beside us to chat and ride a few kilometers with us. He was wearing a mask and told us about the air quality advisories. We continued on and a few minutes later passed a fellow getting out of his truck...he was wearing a full gas mask.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mid Day Sun - Believe or Not!</td></tr>
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Of course, we are worried about the effects of cycling under these conditions, but truly we are deeply concerned about our precious forests and the young people on the fire crews who are valiantly battling over 161 forest fires currently raging in our province. I can not begin to express how angry we feel seeing cigarette butts on the ground at almost every rest stop and park we visit. Will we ever learn?<br />
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Thanks to the route tips from Mike and Lesley we managed to cycle from Ladysmith all the way to Parksville with very little time on the Island Highway. Of course, when you take the back roads, you often add a few extra miles and a few more hills, but it is worth it. We enjoyed touring through parts of the Island we had never visited before. Unfortunately, we could not take in all of the scenic view points along the way due to the heavy haze.<br />
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We stopped for second breakfast, a cycle touring tradition, in Parksville. Our waitress immediately noticed Rob's turtle nails, and sweetly commented, "You've been painting your nails, I see." Rob, a man of few words replied, "It's along story."<br />
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Our backroads route took us through Lantzville and Chemainus. We enjoyed strolling the streets of Old Downtown Chemainus and took time out to explore their famous murals. We ended our day at our favourite B and B in Comox. As usual the company and accommodations were superb!<br />
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It was an incredibly long, hot day and once again I was reminded of the importance of having a solid touring partner. Rob literally willed me to make it to Comox. I am 100% sure that without him I would still be lounging on the beach at Fanny Bay.<br />
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Giggle of the Day:<br />
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Our friendly hosts in Comox went above and beyond to make us feel comfortable and welcome. As we went to bed, we found several tree branches and twigs on the duvet cover. Nothing like bringing the outdoors in to make us feel at home!<br />
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<br />Jane and Robhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09284062943939465883noreply@blogger.com0Ladysmith, BC, Canada48.99534 -123.816148.953657 -123.896781 49.037023 -123.73541900000001tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5570971587894793541.post-24094452357944379082015-07-06T05:07:00.003-07:002019-01-21T14:21:47.049-08:00Day 3 - Shawnigan Lake to Ladysmith, B.C<h2>
Day 3 - Shawnigan Lake to Ladysmith, BC</h2>
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We woke up bright and early and reported to our Muster Station at 0700 for a hearty breakfast of eggs, waffles and sausage. Our team captain Paul is a career military man, now retired. Of course we all have the utmost respect for Paul and his impressive career, yet we relentlessly, playfully and tirelessly teased him any chance we could regarding his military precision. I am afraid our team of "military misfits" would not do well at boot camp. Clearly our expertise is all things TURTLE.<br />
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The morning route for the MS Ride was my favourite. We circled Shawnigan Lake, managing to find yet more wineries to tour.<br />
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It was a beautiful ride around the lake and out to the historic Kinsol trestle. Our team met at the trestle and cycled in the last few kilometres as a group, crossing the finish line together in all our glory.<br />
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To call the event a success is an understatement. Our team raised over $5000 and the ride as a whole raised over $350,000. Hopefully, the funds will help!<br />
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We enjoyed lunch together as a team and then it was time for farewells. Rob and I were feeling anxious to get on our way. We were really intrigued by the Kinsol Trestle and Cowichan Valley trail, part of the Trans Canada Trail system. Karen and James had kindly done some scouting work earlier in the day and reported back that the trail would be good for our bikes. Great advice! We were aching to get off the roads and onto trail and enjoyed a long, relaxing ride through the valley towards Duncan.<br />
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We have learned over the years that "you can't beat local knowledge" especially with respect to routes and breaky spots! Again, this proved true as Rob picked Mike and Lesley's brains for bike friendly routes toward Nanaimo. They did not let us down, as they provided us with a gem of a ride from Duncan to Ladysmith along back roads and through Chemanius.<br />
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As we cycled along we were becoming increasingly concerned about air quality. Sadly, we are in the middle of a very, long hot drought and our forests are on fire! The sun is a blazing ball of bright orange, and there is a very thick haze due to the smoke. We have heard through the grapevine that there is a large fire near Port Hardy and several families have been evacuated. We will need to keep our eye on the fire status as Port Hardy is our next ferry stop.<br />
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We had been hoping to reach Nanaimo today, but after a long, hot ride we opted to crash in a motel in Ladysmith, just a few km short of our intended destination. Coincidentally, the Women's FIFA World Cup final is on, and our motel has a TV.....a feature our tent is lacking.<br />
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Giggle of the day:<br />
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As we were riding towards the Kinsol Trestle we noticed a Budda statue nestled in the shrubbery on the side of the road. Another good omen?<br />
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<br />Jane and Robhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09284062943939465883noreply@blogger.com0Shawnigan Lake, BC V0R, Canada48.6511793 -123.6449961000000148.630200800000004 -123.68533660000001 48.6721578 -123.60465560000002tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5570971587894793541.post-67107201295988341822015-07-05T21:55:00.001-07:002019-01-21T14:21:30.423-08:00Day 2 - Mill Bay, BC to Shawnigan Lake & Cowichan Valley Grape Escape<div>
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<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">Bamberton Provinical Campsite was a gem and we were sorry to only be spending one night there. Nestled in the forest and a short hike to the beach, this campsite is a family favourite. We were thrilled to see scores of young families camping and delighted in the antics of the kids as they explored the campsite on their bikes....round, round, and round they went with unbridled enthusiasm and tireless energy.</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">Our morning took us from Bamberton Provincial campsite to Shawnigan Lake School. We were meeting up with the FasTurtles cycling team, sponsored by The Tourism Cafe to take part in a two day fundraising ride for MS. The ride is very close to our hearts as our brother in law, and Team Captain Paul is battling the disease. We were also riding in support of our very dear friend Gail.</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">As we approached Shawnigan Lake school we were blown away. It is a page right out of the Harry Potter books and while we waited for our team to arrive we entertained ourselves by searching for Dumbledore and the gang. We expected them to materialize at any moment.</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">The ride was fantastic! We are the new members this year and were welcomed with open arms and instantly felt part of this amazing group of people. We spent the day, in the blazing hot sun cycling through the Cowichan Valley, visiting numerous wineries and enjoying time with our team mates. </span></div>
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<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">Kudos to the organizing committee, sponsors and countless volunteers who worked to coordinate such a terrific ride. Tomorrow we will learn how much many we raised in support of MS research. Judging by the enthusiasm of the participating teams, we expect to hear good news.</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">Throughout the ride we continually remarked how beautiful and interesting the Cowichan Valley is....a definite spot to visit especially if you enjoy the odd glass of wine.</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">It was a hot day, we later learned the temperature rose to 34 degrees. You could literally feel the heat radiating off the pavement as you rode. Rob and I were both feeling the effects of the heat yet our team captain Paul kept on trucking. He was truly inspirational to watch and we felt proud to be part of his team.</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">The day ended with a wonderful banquet dinner in the dining hall. We enjoyed spending time with our team mates Karen, James, Mike and Lesley - quite a turtley group to say the least. Tonight our tent is set up on the immaculate rugby pitch at Shawnigan Lake School. We are nestled between the goalpost. We have never pitched a tent in location quite like this. Tomorrow we ride again!</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">Turtle Power! Paul was definitely the captain and inspiration for our team, but to say his wife Nancy was the top cheerleader is an understatement! Nancy is a life force, a category 5 storm! She is full of energy, enthusiasm and has an infectious laugh that is contagious! Under Nancy's direction we found ourselves wearing turtles on our hemets, turtled themed bandanas on our necks,, painting our nails a deep shade of green (turtle shells of course) and singing "turtle power" for 70 km straight! Our team was highly visible along the road and at all the pit stops. Thank you Nancy, Paul and Tourism Cafe.</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">Scotiabank MS Bike<br /><a href="http://www.cowichanvalleygrapeescape.com/" target="_blank">Cowichan Valley Grape Escape</a></span>Jane and Robhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09284062943939465883noreply@blogger.com0Bamberton Provincial Park, Mill Bay, BC V0R 2P4, Canada48.6053165 -123.5271354999999927.1860675 -164.83572949999999 70.0245655 -82.218541499999986tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5570971587894793541.post-56387443092968315442015-07-05T06:15:00.000-07:002019-01-21T14:21:10.499-08:00Day 1 - Surrey BC to Mill Bay, BC<h2>
<b>Day 1 - Surrey,BC to Mill Bay</b></h2>
<b>69 km</b><br />
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Do you believe in omens? I suppose I believe in good omens and if I am honest with myself I dismiss bad omens as silly superstitions. Today started with a series of good, if not great omens. We decided to get a really early start in order to beat the heat and were on the road by 5:34am - yes 5:34 exactly - I checked my watch. We were feeling strong, excited and ready to spin! The sun was rising as the full moon was setting, the air was calm, mist was coming off the fields and we could hear owls hooting. I know it sounds like I am making this up....but, truly conditions were PERFECT! At exactly 5:51 am - yes exactly 5:51 - I checked my watch, we got our first AWESOME. A cyclist on his morning commute to work rode up beside us and gave us a thumbs up. He said he could never cycle with that much weight and gave us a hearty "safe travels". </div>
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Buoyed by our first awesome, we continued on and soon bumped in to a couple out on their morning walk. We stopped to chat and learned that the lady had lived in Haida Gwaii. She wished us well and enthusiastically told us how much we would love the islands. Our luck continued as we arrived at the ferry terminal and literally rode on to boat..and secured the coveted first in line position at the cafeteria. Waiting to disembark, we chatted with another couple who were on their way to cycle on Salt Spring Island. They were avid cyclists, and as luck would have it they had visited Haida Gwaii years ago and stayed with some of the Morseby Explorers folk. Small world!</div>
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Our route took us from the Swartz Bay ferry terminal along the coast through North Saanich. It was a pretty ride and before we knew it we were in Brentwood Bay. As we began our trip down the hill to the ferry, our good luck continued. We arrived just in time to load! We looked at each other in disbelief. We have a past history of "just missing" ferries, so to be consistently arriving in time seemed surreal.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Scenic Brentwood Bay</td></tr>
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We enjoyed a quick and scenic sailing to Mill Bay and then hopped on our bikes to begin the climb to our campsite in Bamberton Provincial Park. We arrived by lunch - unbelievable. We treated ourselves to a swim in the ocean and a very decadent, but well deserved nap.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bamberton Provincial Park, Vancouver Island, BC</td></tr>
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Good omens? I don't know....maybe, it is simply how you interpret things that come your way....what i do know for sure is that we are off to a great start....only a few hundred more kilometres to go and we will be in Haida Gwaii.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Just another day on the beach!</td></tr>
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<b><u>Giggle of the day:</u></b></div>
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As we were on the ferry heading towards Swartz Bay, Rob heard the distant sound of bagpipes. I didn't hear anything and thought he was losing his mind. He was convinced, and went off in search of the Piper. Sure enough, on the lower outside deck, a gentleman was playing the pipes. Seriously - you can not invent this stuff! It brought a tear to my eye, as I listened to the sounds of Amazing Grace. We stood transfixed for the rest of the sailing. Yes - I believe in omens!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Live entertainment on BC Ferries</td></tr>
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BC Ferries schedules<a href="http://www.bcferries.ca/" target="_blank">www.bcferries.ca</a></div>
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Jane and Robhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09284062943939465883noreply@blogger.com0Ferry Road, Mill Bay, BC V0R 2P4, Canada48.6150544 -123.5203260000000148.612429899999995 -123.52536850000001 48.6176789 -123.51528350000001tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5570971587894793541.post-9994846267309433802015-06-24T13:26:00.000-07:002019-01-21T14:20:34.403-08:00Haida Gwaii - On the Edge of the World<h2 style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Haida Gwaii - On the Edge of the World</h2>
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For years a visit to Haida Gwaii has been on our wish list! This archipelago off the Northwest Coast of British Columbia is remote, incredibly beautiful, relatively untouched and rich in Haida culture. The fascinating history of the Haida people goes back to the great floods and the first tree. The islands have been nicknamed the Galapagos of the North because of the distinct flora and fauna that have evolved over thousands of years....and the beaches are amazing!</div>
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We are fascinated by this awe-inspiring place, home to <a href="http://www.pc.gc.ca/eng/pn-np/bc/gwaiihaanas/index.aspx" target="_blank">Gwaii Haanas National Park and Haida Heritage Site</a> and honoured to be visiting. To make our vacation extra special, we have booked a four day tour with <a href="http://moresbyexplorers.com/" target="_blank">Moresby Explorers</a>. The icing on the cake - our daughter is working as a Guide for Moresby. We are excited to visit with her and learn more about the place she currently calls home.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaGJXFzAEYDjDcXa4cQy-717rWtIDycxcrZWOCGo1Kaf5D49yBY_Cu8RyIo1tvN9xkcFZ5cxhKOe8awRWNFXzvdz9keABlJDxL0dNq_aDATao4Sc_zEBN3N4L5VGZS3hhlYW2xkVCe4gSp/s1600/cycle-tour-Haida-Gwaii.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Cycle Tour Haida Gwaii" border="0" height="179" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaGJXFzAEYDjDcXa4cQy-717rWtIDycxcrZWOCGo1Kaf5D49yBY_Cu8RyIo1tvN9xkcFZ5cxhKOe8awRWNFXzvdz9keABlJDxL0dNq_aDATao4Sc_zEBN3N4L5VGZS3hhlYW2xkVCe4gSp/s320/cycle-tour-Haida-Gwaii.jpg" title="Cycle Tour Haida Gwaii" width="320" /></a></div>
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Our plan is to cycle from our home in Surrey to Port Hardy on Vancouver Island and then make our way to the islands by ferry. Thanks again for your interest in sharing our bike tours with us....as always your support and positive feedback help us up those hills! I must confess the hills do seem to be getting much steeper with each passing year.</div>
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Our trip to the Edge of the World begins on July 3rd..... </div>
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Here's a short video that will give you a feel for this amazing place.</div>
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<b><i>Haida Gwaii - a Walk in Our World...when you've reached the edge of your world, our begins!</i></b></div>
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#cycle #cycletour #cyclebc #haidagwaii #explorebc #tourismbc #discoveroutdoors #myopus</div>
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Jane and Robhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09284062943939465883noreply@blogger.com0Haida Gwaii, Skeena-Queen Charlotte E, BC, Canada52.656235 -131.8117734999999651.424215000000004 -134.39356049999995 53.888255 -129.22998649999997