Reflections - Cycle Tour to Haida Gwaii

Reflections, Maps, Route Tip and Tidbits - Cycle Tour to Haida Gwaii

We quickly realized that Haida Gwaii is so much more than a wish list destination.  It is a place that touches your heart and soul and leaves an impression that I suspect will last a lifetime.

We began our vacation thinking we were embarking on a cycle tour, but as we look back at the miles we travelled, the places we visited and the people we met, it is clear that a visit to Haida Gwaii and more specifically, Gwaii Haanas was a once in a lifetime opportunity.  To explore this fascinating part of our world with Heron, owner of Moresby Explorers and our own daughter, Emma, as our guides was a thrill beyond measure.

Heron and Emma - Moresby Explorers

You know the feeling you have when you take a picture of a breath taking sunset and later when you view the picture you find yourself thinking, this photo doesn't do it justice?  Well, we freely admit that our photos and descriptions do not do justice to the splendour and ruggedness of Haida Gwaii.

In truth, this tour felt like two separate experiences.  The cycle route on Vancouver Island and the MS Ride was certainly a thrill and definitely a route we would recommend.   Vancouver Island is beautiful and offers much to the touring cyclist.  The ferry route along the Inside Passage was comparable to a cruise and a trip we encourage those visiting British Columbia to do.

The FasTurtles - Lesley, Nancy, Mike, Paul, Jane, Rob, James & Karen

However, in all honesty, the days spent on Vancouver Island seem to pale in comparison to the time spent in Haida Gwaii. Tourist magazines and websites declare that the land and sea have shaped the people who live on these islands and I would suggest our visit has shaped us too.

Each pole tells a story with representations of human, animal & spiritual figures

As we gazed at the craved mortuary and memorial poles located in the village of S'Gang Gwaay we were transported back in time and we tried to imagine the way of life of the Haida.  The Haida do not have a written language, yet the poles tell the stories of the Raven and Eagle moieties and in essence bring history to life.  As a UNESCO site, S'Gang Gwaay is considered to have outstanding universal value and was designated a World Heritage Site under the following criterion:

"SGang Gwaay llnagaay (Nan Sdins), located on SGang Gwaay (Anthony Island) in an archipelago off the west coast of British Columbia, bears unique testimony to the culture of the Haida. The art represented by the carved poles at SGang Gwaay llnagaay (Nan Sdins) is recognized to be among the finest examples of its type in the world."  (Parks Canada)

Poles at S'Gang Gwaay

Cycling to Haida Gwaii was much more than a vacation.  In fact it was a privilege to visit a place that is sacred to so many.  The legend of St. Mary's Spring states that those who sip the natural water will find a reason and a way to someday return to the islands.

I don't think we will need a reason.

The Edge of the World

Map and Route Tips:

• Be sure to allocate time to explore Gwaii Haanas.  This area is only accessible by boat or seaplane.  There are several tour operators in the area who can assist you.  Our favourite, of course, is Moresby Explorers.
• Watch the tidal swings!  Tidal range can be up to 24 feet....makes for great beach combing, but can also have a huge impact on current speeds.
• To expand cycling opportunities in Haida Gwaii, consider a mountain bike, as many areas are only accessed via logging roads or trails.  

BC Ferries

• We travelled via BC Ferries on the following routes.  Check schedules carefully.
• Tsawassen to Schwartz Bay
• Brentwood Bay to Mill Bay
• Port Hardy to Prince Rupert - the Inside Passage
• Prince Rupert to Skidegate Landing
• Skidegate Landing to Alliford Bay
• Services on the Island Highway north of Campbell River are limited.  Be sure to check your distances and stock up on food and water.  Also, note that bike shops are few and far between.  Bring parts!
• Great camping along the route.
• Motels and Hotels readily available for those nights you might need or want a hot shower and soft bed.
• We had fantastic weather....BUT - be sure to build in extra time, as conditions can change rapidly, especially the further north you venture.  Remember, there is no such thing as bad weather - just bad gear.  Pack the rain gear!!!
• There's an APP for that. It was interesting to learn how the Haida elders are working to preserve their heritage and culture.  The Skidegate Haida Immersion Program (SHIP) strives to preserve and revitalize the language....and yes there is an app for that available on ITunes!
• Last, but not least, pack your camera!  From bears and eagles to whales, sunfish and nudibranchs..the wildlife viewing was incredible!

#ThisIsMyBC #ShareTheCoast #cycle #bike #cycletour #gohaidagwaii #explorebc

Day 10 Prince Rupert to Sandspit

Day 10 - Prince Rupert to Sandspit, B.C.

93 nautical miles - 15 km cycling

Once again we found ourselves up bright and early waiting in line for a ferry.  Only two more sailings to go and we would finally be in Haida Gwaii.  We were only 40 miles south of the Alaska border with 93 nautical miles and 7 hours to go before we arrived on Graham Island.

As we waited to board we were joined by a feisty "old-timer" named Lou.  What a gem!  Lou is a very young 79 years and has been living on Graham Island for the last 45 years.  He is a burly man and has quite an intimidating presence until he smiles.  He rides a motorcycle and was dressed from head to toe in leather.

Lou is a wonderful storyteller and we enjoyed spending time with him as we waited to board the ferry.  He knew almost everyone in line by name and shared jokes and updates with the crowd.  We would soon learn that not much gets by people in Haida Gwaii, as the community is very close-knit and news travels fast.

Lou shared fantastic ferry stories and we were in stitches as he described storms, delays and exciting journeys across the Hecate Strait.  This body of water is quite shallow and marine weather conditions can often be quite severe. Apparently, the locals affectionately (or not) call the ferry the Northern Misadventure and we were soon to experience our own.

BC Ferries Northern Adventure connecting Prince Rupert to Skidegate Landing

Not a bike rack to be seen....we are asked to tie the bikes down

Barf Bags and Charging Station?

The ferry was over one hour late leaving Prince Rupert as the crew took extra time loading in an attempt to squeeze every delivery truck, camper, motorcycle, car, bike and van on to the boat.  It was an amazing puzzle and credit to the crew for their valiant efforts to accommodate everyone.  Selfishly, we were becoming quite worried that we would miss our connecting ferry to Sandspit.  No one else on the boat seemed worried as the majority were locals and on "island time."  Just as we were sure we were going to miss our sailing, the ship's captain announced that they would hold the connecting ferry for us.  We were amazed!  We arrived in dock and the crew held back all of the walk on passengers and vehicles and gave us a personal escort off the boat and onto the next one.  Thank you BC Ferries!

The crew holds the Kwuna Ferry for us

Approach to Alliford Bay on Morseby Island

The crossing to Morseby Island is very short and absolutely beautiful.  We excitedly waited to disembark and before we knew it we were back on our bikes cycling the last few kilometres to Sandspit.  We enjoyed a flat and easy ride and took a few moments to celebrate our arrival to the Edge of the World.

Only 2 km to go!

Giggle of the Day:

This isn't so much a giggle, but a tale of joy.  After our long cycle and numerous, lengthy ferry crossings we finally rode up to the Moresby Explorers office in search of our daughter....and there she was having just returned from guiding a day tour.  We found her washing the van.....and we would argue there isn't a prettier sight in all of Haida Gwaii.

Morseby Explorers Office

Emma

Map and Route Tips:

BC Ferries - Northern Adventure Ferry - Prince Rupert to Skidegate, Graham Island - 93 nautical miles
BC Ferries - Kwuna Ferry - Skidegate Landing to Alliford Bay, Moreseby Island

Alliford Bay to Sandspit - 10 km


#HaidaGwaii #CycleBC #explorebc #cycletour #gohaidagwaii #myopus #hecatestrait

Day 9 Port Hardy to Prince Rupert on the Northern Expedition

Day 9 - Port Hardy to Prince Rupert on the Northern Expedition

522.8 km

Total km cycled 1.8  :)

We arrived bright and early at the Port Hardy ferry terminal excited for our next leg.  As we waited for the ferry we met a family from Klemtu, a remote coastal village.  We chatted away with Grandma Rhonda and her delightful six year old grand daughter Nasi.  Grandma Rhonda was born and has lived her whole live in Klemtu.  Nasi was named after Vancouver Canuck Marcus Naslund and was a sheer joy to hang out with.    She entertained us with her dances, stories and ability to count to 100 by 10's.  

It was an eclectic group travelling on the ferry:  Klemtu locals returning from a shopping spree in Campbell River, kayakers heading out on an adventure from Klemtu to Bella Bella, motorcyclists on a circle tour and of course bus loads and campers full of tourists from Europe.  

Waiting to board BC Ferries, Northern Expedition

We boarded the ferry and immediately felt like we were on a cruise ship.  The Northern Expedition features cabins equipped with showers and TV's, lounges, a movie theatre, buffet, cafeteria, and most importantly front row seats to arguably some of the most spectacular scenery in the province. 

Front row seats on the Northern Expedition

Buffet dinner (with wine)

I am unable to find words to describe the scenery and feel of the Inside Passage.  The low coastal mountains tower above you as you weave your way through the narrow channels.  The trees are a lush green and the forest is so dense that you can't see in further than a few feet.  Low hanging cloud touches the trees and appears to hang on the branches creating a mystic feel to the area.  The route is steeped in history and you find yourself being transported back in time as you pass numerous light houses, and old fishing, logging and mining areas.  As you near Prince Rupert you travel through Grenville Channel, where mountains 1,500 to 3,500 feet surround you at a point where the channel narrows.  We were told that occasionally you can see moose and deer swimming across the channel through these narrows which go for 70km.  At the narrowest point the channel is 2.1km across.  Incredible!

Speaking of wildlife viewing, the Humpback Whales did not disappoint.  It became almost comical as the ship's Captain would announce a whale sighting and the passengers would sprint  from port to starboard to catch a glimpse of these magnificent creatures.  At one point, I was convinced the boat might tip as we all sprinted on mass to the starboard side.  I am sure we looked ridiculous to the veteran crew.

We ended this glorious day on a high.  There to meet us as we disembarked in Prince Rupert at 11pm was our son Ian and his friend Julie.  They are on their own cycling vacation and our paths crossed.  We enjoyed a couple of cold brews at their campsite and shared stories of our trips.  They have the best and most epic ferry story to tell.  It is theirs to share, so I will leave this as a cliff hanger, but should you run in to them be sure to ask about Hecate Strait, a tent, a ferry and a biker.......  

Ian and Julie on their way home

Giggle of the Day:

Terrified we would miss the ferry, we set our alarm for the ungodly hour of 4:30am!!!  The alarm went off to the music of Bon Jovi singing, "oh oh we're half way there, oh oh livin' on a prayer!" .... enough said!

#explorebc #bcferries #haidagwaii #cycle #cycletour #northernexpedition

Day 1 - Surrey BC to Mill Bay, BC

Day 1 - Surrey,BC to Mill Bay

69 km

Bikes loaded and ready to start the tour!

Do you believe in omens?  I suppose I believe in good omens and if I am honest with myself I dismiss bad omens as silly superstitions.  Today started with a series of good, if not great omens.  We decided to get a really early start in order to beat the heat and were on the road by 5:34am - yes 5:34 exactly - I checked my watch.  We were feeling strong, excited and ready to spin!  The sun was rising as the full moon was setting, the air was calm, mist was coming off the fields and we could hear owls hooting.  I know it sounds like I am making this up....but, truly conditions were PERFECT!  At exactly 5:51 am - yes exactly 5:51 - I checked my watch, we got our first AWESOME.  A cyclist on his morning commute to work rode up beside us and gave us a thumbs up.  He said he could never cycle with that much weight and gave us a hearty "safe travels".  

Buoyed by our first awesome, we continued on and soon bumped in to a couple out on their morning walk.  We stopped to chat and learned that the lady had lived in Haida Gwaii.  She wished us well and enthusiastically told us how much we would love the islands.  Our luck continued as we arrived at the ferry terminal and literally rode on to boat..and secured the coveted first in line position at the cafeteria.  Waiting to disembark, we chatted with another couple who were on their way to cycle on Salt Spring Island.  They were avid cyclists, and as  luck would have it they had visited Haida Gwaii years ago and stayed with some of the Morseby Explorers folk.  Small world!

Our route took us from the Swartz Bay ferry terminal along the coast through North Saanich.  It was a pretty ride and before we knew it we were in Brentwood Bay.  As we began our trip down the hill to the ferry, our good luck continued.  We arrived just in time to load!  We looked at each other in disbelief.  We have a past history of "just missing" ferries, so to be consistently arriving in time seemed surreal.

Scenic Brentwood Bay

We enjoyed a quick and scenic sailing to Mill Bay and then hopped on our bikes to begin the climb to our campsite in Bamberton Provincial Park.  We arrived by lunch - unbelievable.  We treated ourselves to a swim in the ocean and a very decadent, but well deserved nap.

Bamberton Provincial Park, Vancouver Island, BC

Good omens?  I don't know....maybe, it is simply how you interpret things that come your way....what i do know for sure is that we are off to a great start....only a few hundred more kilometres to go and we will be in Haida Gwaii.

Just another day on the beach!

Giggle of the day:

As we were on the ferry heading towards Swartz Bay, Rob heard the distant sound of bagpipes.  I didn't hear anything and thought he was losing his mind.  He was convinced, and went off in search of the Piper.  Sure enough, on the lower outside deck, a gentleman was playing the pipes.  Seriously - you can not invent this stuff!  It brought a tear to my eye, as I listened to the sounds of Amazing Grace.  We stood transfixed for the rest of the sailing.  Yes - I believe in omens!

Live entertainment on BC Ferries

BC Ferries scheduleswww.bcferries.ca