Monday, August 17, 2015

Reflections - Cycle Tour to Haida Gwaii

Reflections, Maps, Route Tip and Tidbits - Cycle Tour to Haida Gwaii


We quickly realized that Haida Gwaii is so much more than a wish list destination.  It is a place that touches your heart and soul and leaves an impression that I suspect will last a lifetime.

We began our vacation thinking we were embarking on a cycle tour, but as we look back at the miles we travelled, the places we visited and the people we met, it is clear that a visit to Haida Gwaii and more specifically, Gwaii Haanas was a once in a lifetime opportunity.  To explore this fascinating part of our world with Heron, owner of Moresby Explorers and our own daughter, Emma, as our guides was a thrill beyond measure.

Heron and Emma - Moresby Explorers

You know the feeling you have when you take a picture of a breath taking sunset and later when you view the picture you find yourself thinking, this photo doesn't do it justice?  Well, we freely admit that our photos and descriptions do not do justice to the splendour and ruggedness of Haida Gwaii.

In truth, this tour felt like two separate experiences.  The cycle route on Vancouver Island and the MS Ride was certainly a thrill and definitely a route we would recommend.   Vancouver Island is beautiful and offers much to the touring cyclist.  The ferry route along the Inside Passage was comparable to a cruise and a trip we encourage those visiting British Columbia to do.

The FasTurtles - Lesley, Nancy, Mike, Paul, Jane, Rob, James & Karen
However, in all honesty, the days spent on Vancouver Island seem to pale in comparison to the time spent in Haida Gwaii. Tourist magazines and websites declare that the land and sea have shaped the people who live on these islands and I would suggest our visit has shaped us too.

Each pole tells a story with representations of human, animal & spiritual figures

As we gazed at the craved mortuary and memorial poles located in the village of S'Gang Gwaay we were transported back in time and we tried to imagine the way of life of the Haida.  The Haida do not have a written language, yet the poles tell the stories of the Raven and Eagle moieties and in essence bring history to life.  As a UNESCO site, S'Gang Gwaay is considered to have outstanding universal value and was designated a World Heritage Site under the following criterion:

"SGang Gwaay llnagaay (Nan Sdins), located on SGang Gwaay (Anthony Island) in an archipelago off the west coast of British Columbia, bears unique testimony to the culture of the Haida. The art represented by the carved poles at SGang Gwaay llnagaay (Nan Sdins) is recognized to be among the finest examples of its type in the world."  (Parks Canada)

Poles at S'Gang Gwaay

Cycling to Haida Gwaii was much more than a vacation.  In fact it was a privilege to visit a place that is sacred to so many.  The legend of St. Mary's Spring states that those who sip the natural water will find a reason and a way to someday return to the islands.

I don't think we will need a reason.

The Edge of the World



Map and Route Tips:
  • Be sure to allocate time to explore Gwaii Haanas.  This area is only accessible by boat or seaplane.  There are several tour operators in the area who can assist you.  Our favourite, of course, is Moresby Explorers.
  • Watch the tidal swings!  Tidal range can be up to 24 feet....makes for great beach combing, but can also have a huge impact on current speeds.
  • To expand cycling opportunities in Haida Gwaii, consider a mountain bike, as many areas are only accessed via logging roads or trails.  
BC Ferries
  • We travelled via BC Ferries on the following routes.  Check schedules carefully.
  • Services on the Island Highway north of Campbell River are limited.  Be sure to check your distances and stock up on food and water.  Also, note that bike shops are few and far between.  Bring parts!
  • Great camping along the route.
  • Motels and Hotels readily available for those nights you might need or want a hot shower and soft bed.
  • We had fantastic weather....BUT - be sure to build in extra time, as conditions can change rapidly, especially the further north you venture.  Remember, there is no such thing as bad weather - just bad gear.  Pack the rain gear!!!
  • There's an APP for that. It was interesting to learn how the Haida elders are working to preserve their heritage and culture.  The Skidegate Haida Immersion Program (SHIP) strives to preserve and revitalize the language....and yes there is an app for that available on ITunes!
  • Last, but not least, pack your camera!  From bears and eagles to whales, sunfish and nudibranchs..the wildlife viewing was incredible!
#ThisIsMyBC #ShareTheCoast #cycle #bike #cycletour #gohaidagwaii #explorebc

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