Day 12 Moresby Camp to Floating Lodge
To the south of Sandspit lies Gwaii Haanas, a National Park Reserve, National Marine Conservation Area Reserve and Haida Heritage Site. This national and international treasure is only accessible by boat or seaplane and we were excited to embark on our four day tour of the Islands with Moresby Explorers.
We met our group and set off for Moresby Camp, our launch site! Moresby Camp is an abandoned logging camp that has been redeveloped into a recreation site complete with outhouses, campsite and a boat launch. Our group consisted of our amazing guides, Heron (owner and all things Haida Gwaii) Emma, and fellow travellers Vera, Christine, Avril, Grant, Claire and Amanda. We gathered together and were issued our official waterproof, rainproof, for extreme conditions Helly Hanson Work Wear.
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| Rob ready to get started! |
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| Helly Hanson Work Wear |
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| The Intrepid Crew |
Our first order of business was to master the Zodiac exit and entrance. Easy from the luxury of a dock but we were not quite as graceful when attempting to board on the beaches. Emma and Heron would work to keep the boat still while we flopped in and out like fish out of water.
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| Vera perfects the exit |
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| Emma paddles out to retrieve the Zodiac |
Our day was full and the scenery left us speechless! The coastal forests, thick with Sitka spruce, western hemlock and eastern red cedar dominate the islands. The trees are massive and you feel quite insignificant beside them. Because of the large black-tailed deer population the forest floors are thick with moss, as the deer have devoured the smaller shrubs and plants.
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| Jane is dwarfed by the giants of the forest |
We stopped on Louise Island, the third biggest island on Haida Gwaii and explored an old logging camp. Old steam donkeys, equipment, bottles and leather boots littered the forest floor, reminders of days gone by.
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| Heron explains the history of the logging operation |
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| Time for a new pair of boots? |
The highlight of the day was a tour of Skedans, a Haida village site. The village was abandoned in the 1880's near the end of the smallpox epidemic. It was fascinating and moving to view the remains of the poles and houses. Each pole tells a story with its representation of human, animal and supernatural figures. They are now covered in moss and slowly decaying. I was struck by the way the forest was reclaiming the poles, almost in a protective and nurturing way. You can not help but feel the deep connection that the Haida people have for the land and nature and it is easy to see how Emily Carr was inspired to create some of her most loved paintings here.
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| Emma leads the way at Skedans |
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| The forest takes back the pole |
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| Remnants of a longhouse |
We were deeply moved by the visit to Skedans and this unique opportunity to learn about the Haida culture.
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| Potlatch rings visible on this Memorial Pole |
Our day ended on a high! We were spending the night at the Moresby Explorers' Floating Lodge located in a small remote cove. We rounded the bend to see this.....
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| The Floating Lodge |
As we arrived we were greeted by our amazing Chef, Mariel and float camp volunteer Amanda.
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| Mariel, Emma and Amanda |
They had the fire on, appetizers ready and welcomed us with open arms. We enjoyed a lively dinner with our new friends, and then Rob and I noticed kayaks and managed to excuse ourselves. We enjoyed an evening paddle - what a treat! The silence was palpable, and it almost felt intrusive to dip our paddles in the water. It was a magical moment....one we will never forget!
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| We couldn't resist the opportunity to paddle |
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| We found our pot of gold in Haida Gwaii |
Giggle of the Day:
Gwaii Haanas is the first protected area in the world that is managed form the top of the mountains to the bottom of the sea as one integrated and connected space. We were extremely excited about the wildlife viewing opportunities this special area presents - the Galapagos of the North so to speak! However, our first wildlife encounter was not quite what we expected. We donned our rain gear and were heading to the boat ramp to begin our adventure when nature called. It was decidedly time for one last visit to the outhouse. Rob got straight to business and as luck would have it found himself sharing the facility with a wasp's nest. After two little stings and a quick exit, Rob was ready to launch!
p.s. we noticed on our return to Moresby Camp, the outhouse had been closed and caution tape was wrapped around the door. Thanks to Rob for taking one for the team!
Map and Route Tips:
Gwaii Haanas is only accessible by boat or seaplane.
A list of licensed tour operators and other information can be found on the Parks Canada website at www.pc.gc.ca/gwaiihaanas Of course, our favourite guides are at Moresby Explorers!
An orientation session is required for all visitors before entering Gwaii Haanas. Those planning to visit without a guide must make reservations and purchase a visitor permit.
#HaidaGwaii #CycleBC #explorebc #cycletour #gohaidagwaii #myopus #northernbc #zodiak #paddle
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