Day 14 Rose Harbour to Floating Lodge
We woke early to explore the beach at low tide and then joined our group for a fabulous gourmet breakfast prepared by Susan, featuring pancakes and berries fresh from her garden. Last night, Emma had helped to prepare the flour for the pancakes by grinding the grain on a contraption made from an exercise bike. It gave a whole new meaning to fresh ingredients!
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| Part of the Moresby Explorers Fleet |
Tummies full, we loaded ourselves into the Zodiac ready for another day of exploration in Gwaii Haanas. Today our plan was to visit SGang Gwaay, a sacred Haida site located on Anthony Island. SGang Gwaay was declared a United Nations Education and Science Organization (UNESCO) World Heritage Site in 1981. On SGang Gwaay many hundreds of Haida people died and were put to rest in caves, mortuary poles and in the earth.
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| SGang Gwaay |
It was humbling to walk through the village remains. I felt like we were intruding and a deep sense of sorrow came over me. The poles face the sea and seem to stare off into the distance ignoring our presence. Many of the poles on SGang Gwaay are mortuary poles and are believed to hold the spirit of the deceased.
We were guided through the village by James, a Haida Watchman. The Haida Watchmen program began in 1981 as a means to protect the villages and traditional territory. From May to September, Watchmen live at the village sites and serve as guardians to protect the area. Visitors must ask for permission before landing.
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| James describes the poles at SGang Gwaay |
James was very knowledgeable and shared information about the memorial, frontal and mortuary poles. He showed us the remnants of longhouses and house pits and shared information on the history of the Raven and Eagle moieties. He was passionate about his heritage and culture and we left believing that the village was in good hands with James as its caretaker. SGang Gwaay made a lasting impact on all of us and we were subdued as we left the island.
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| Emma reflects upon our visit to SGang Gwaay |
Our return to the Float Camp took us through Burnaby Narrows, famous for its rich intertidal life. We explored shallow coves and once again took in the beauty of the area.
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| Bald Eagles are common in Haida Gwaii |
It was a glorious, sunny afternoon and we enjoyed time at the Float Camp exploring the sea below....imagine a huge aquarium "touch tank." We all lay face down on the float, transfixed by the world below.
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| Bums up and Heads Down - underwater exploration |
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| Nudibranch |
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| Eggyolk Jelly |
We were encouraged by the Moresby staff to get up at midnight and venture out on the float to witness bioluminescence. Science defines bioluminescence as an organism's ability to produce light through a chemical reaction, but to us - it was pure MAGIC! We lay on the dock and dipped our hands and kayak paddles into the water. Immediately a world of light exploded in front of our eyes. We were reminded of the fireflies in the deep south as we watched this weird and wonderful light show. I have no idea how long we were on the dock.....time didn't seem to matter.
Giggle of the Day:
Yesterday, Heron had set two large prawn traps in the cove near the Floating Lodge. On our return to the lodge we stopped to retrieve the traps and survey our catch. We were all imagining what Mariel might create for dinner with fresh prawns. (hard to believe, but we were once again thinking about food!) Anxiously, we all hung over the sides of the Zodiac as Heron, with a little help from Rob, pulled in 600 feet of line. After much effort, Heron pulled out the two traps....not a prawn to be seen. Heron declared, "That's the absolute worst prawn catch I have ever had! Good thing I am not a fishing guide."
Map and Route Tips:
#HaidaGwaii #CycleBC #explorebc #cycletour #gohaidagwaii #myopus #GwaiiHaanas #marine #haida #UNESCO
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