Day 12 Moresby Camp to Floating Lodge

Day 12 Moresby Camp to Floating Lodge

To the south of Sandspit lies Gwaii Haanas, a National Park Reserve, National Marine Conservation Area Reserve and Haida Heritage Site.  This national and international treasure is only accessible by boat or seaplane and we were excited to embark on our four day tour of the Islands with Moresby Explorers.

We met our group and set off for Moresby Camp, our launch site!  Moresby Camp is an abandoned logging camp that has been redeveloped into a recreation site complete with outhouses, campsite and a boat launch.  Our group consisted of our amazing guides, Heron (owner and all things Haida Gwaii) Emma, and fellow travellers Vera, Christine, Avril, Grant, Claire and Amanda.  We gathered together and were issued our official waterproof, rainproof, for extreme conditions Helly Hanson Work Wear.

Rob ready to get started!

Helly Hanson Work Wear

What a good looking group we were......

The Intrepid Crew

Our first order of business was to master the Zodiac exit and entrance.  Easy from the luxury of a dock but we were not quite as graceful when attempting to board on the beaches.  Emma and Heron would work to keep the boat still while we flopped in and out like fish out of water.  

Vera perfects the exit

Emma paddles out to retrieve the Zodiac

Our day was full and the scenery left us speechless!  The coastal forests, thick with Sitka spruce, western hemlock and eastern red cedar dominate the islands.  The trees are massive and you feel quite insignificant beside them.  Because of the large black-tailed deer population the forest floors are thick with moss, as the deer have devoured the smaller shrubs and plants.  

Jane is dwarfed by the giants of the forest

We stopped on Louise Island, the third biggest island on Haida Gwaii and explored an old logging camp.  Old steam donkeys, equipment, bottles and leather boots littered the forest floor, reminders of days gone by.

Heron explains the history of the logging operation

Time for a new pair of boots?

The highlight of the day was a tour of Skedans, a Haida village site.  The village was abandoned in the 1880's near the end of the smallpox epidemic.  It was fascinating and moving to view the remains of the poles and houses.  Each pole tells a story with its representation of human, animal and supernatural figures. They are now covered in moss and slowly decaying.  I was struck by the way the forest was reclaiming the poles, almost in a protective and nurturing way.  You can not help but feel the deep connection that the Haida people have for the land and nature and it is easy to see how Emily Carr was inspired to create some of her most loved paintings here. 

Emma leads the way at Skedans

The forest takes back the pole

Remnants of a longhouse

We were deeply moved by the visit to Skedans and this unique opportunity to learn about the Haida culture.

Potlatch rings visible on this Memorial Pole

Our day ended on a high!  We were spending the night at the Moresby Explorers' Floating Lodge located in a small remote cove.  We rounded the bend to see this.....

The Floating Lodge

As we arrived we were greeted by our amazing Chef, Mariel and float camp volunteer Amanda. 

Mariel, Emma and Amanda

 They had the fire on, appetizers ready and welcomed us with open arms. We enjoyed a lively dinner with our new friends, and then Rob and I noticed kayaks and managed to excuse ourselves.  We enjoyed an evening paddle - what a treat!  The silence was palpable, and it almost felt intrusive to dip our paddles in the water.  It was a magical moment....one we will never forget! 

We couldn't resist the opportunity to paddle

We found our pot of gold in Haida Gwaii

Giggle of the Day:

Gwaii Haanas is the first protected area in the world that is managed form the top of the mountains to the bottom of the sea as one integrated and connected space.  We were extremely excited about the wildlife viewing opportunities this special area presents - the Galapagos of the North so to speak!  However, our first wildlife encounter was not quite what we expected.  We donned our rain gear and were heading to the boat ramp to begin our adventure when nature called.  It was decidedly time for one last visit to the outhouse.  Rob got straight to business and as luck would have it found himself sharing the facility with a wasp's nest.  After two little stings and a quick exit, Rob was ready to launch!

p.s.  we noticed on our return to Moresby Camp, the outhouse had been closed and caution tape was wrapped around the door.  Thanks to Rob for taking one for the team!

Map and Route Tips:

Gwaii Haanas is only accessible by boat or seaplane.

A list of licensed tour operators and other information can be found on the Parks Canada website at www.pc.gc.ca/gwaiihaanas  Of course, our favourite guides are at Moresby Explorers!

An orientation session is required for all visitors before entering Gwaii Haanas.  Those planning to visit without a guide must make reservations and purchase a visitor permit.



 #HaidaGwaii #CycleBC #explorebc #cycletour #gohaidagwaii #myopus #northernbc #zodiak #paddle

Day 8 Telegraph Cove to Port Hardy

Day 8 Telegraph Cove to Port Hardy

66 km

Sunrise.  We woke early to this amazing view!

Really - does it get much better than this?  We put on our fleecies for the first time in 8 days to combat a slight, and I mean very slight chill in the air.  We are still dumbfounded that we have cycled Vancouver Island from south to north without a drop of rain and without ever donning our long undies!  While it has made for a very enjoyable vacation, we are seeing the effects of the heat and the drought every where we visit.  Areas are beginning to close their parks and trails in an attempt to prevent fires.  Thankfully, we are not prone to lightening strikes in this neck of the woods.

We were determined to get an early start out of Telegraph Cove.  To call the road "bike friendly" is a gross exaggeration of the word friendly.  The road twists, turns, has no shoulder and features very steep sections.  Definitely better attempted in the early morning before the heat of the day.

Once we were back on the main highway we made great time and were feeling very optimistic.  We stopped roadside to celebrate breaking the 50 mile marker to Port Hardy.  The dream was alive and we were confident that come hell or high water we would make our ferry connection.  We had just been chatting about the pressure a deadline creates, and how it is so difficult to time your ride due to changing weather conditions, terrain, mechanical problems, physical issues, etc. etc.  In a cruel twist of fate, it happened.  I flatted out!  Now that is what I call irony.

Rob put his tiring changing skills to work and we were back on the road in no time flat. (pun intended!)  We continued along Highway 19 or Bear Alley as the locals call it and soon found ourselves looking at a Prince Rupert ferry sign.  We are booked on the 7am ferry.  We have been told to arrive two hours early in order to claim our reservation.  Concerned about riding in the dark, we decided to take a room at Bear Cove Cottages, only 1 km from the ferry terminal.  Worst case, we figure we can ditch the gear and make a run for the boat.

As luck would have it, and good luck has certainly come our way this trip, the cottages are amazing!  We arrived early in the afternoon, checked in, showered and set out on foot to explore the area.  We stumbled in to Bear Cove Park and met Andrew, a DFO summer student.  Andrew is an aspiring marine biologist and is tasked with greeting the fishermen as they pull in to dock, documenting their catch and taking samples.

The view from his office is to die for!

We continued on down to the marina and had the very good fortune of meeting Neeta. This wonderful lady runs the Bait and Tackle store and is a true gem!  She asked if we would like to meet her eagle.  Before we knew it, she had collected a fish head from one of the local fisherman and was calling to her friend.  Within seconds, a magnificent bald eagle swooped down for a tasty treat.

Neeta, or the Eagle Whisperer as we affectionately called her, was very clear in stressing that she is careful not to feed the eagle too much as she does not want it to become dependent on her.  As we chatted away, a crafty river otter popped up to get in on the action.  It struck me how connected Neeta was to Nature.  We had seen the news the other day, and a young girl in Vancouver was interviewed.  She had vaguely heard something about a water restriction but had no idea there was a drought.  On the flipside, Neeta shared stories of the eagles, their babies, the seagulls, the otters.......I could have listened to her all night.

Giggle of the day

Our 'master plan" was to cycle in to Port Hardy and purchase groceries to top up our supplies before our next leg to Haida.  We grossly miscalculated the extra distance.  It was another 20km to get our groceries and come back.  Faced with another 20 km in the saddle or lounging on our deck watching cruise ships go by, we made an executive decision ...... pizza delivery!

#explorebc #cycle #cycletour #myopus #northisland

Day 7 Woss to Telegraph Cove

Day 7  Woss to Telegraph Cove

81km

Awesome, Breathtaking, Inspiring, Majestic....I wish words could describe the beauty of today's ride.  We were on the road really early in an attempt to beat the heat and were rewarded with forest views, miles of towering rock walls and glimpses of mountain ridges lining the Nimpkish Valley.

This valley is the largest watershed on Vancouver Island.  The early morning light caught the stands of alder trees and created an almost magical effect.

The roads were really quiet, which was a blessing as we had little or no shoulder for most of the ride.  It is always unsettling when a big Semi Truck or Logging truck screams by you and there is not a shoulder to escape on to. The miles came easily today and before we knew it we were at the turn off to Telegraph Cove.

We had pulled of to the side of the road for a quick "nibble" and were debating whether to turn off to Telegraph Cove or continue on to Port McNeil, when a truck pulled up and asked if we needed directions.  We discussed our plight with the kind stranger who insisted we go to Telegraph Cove.  He said we would absolutely love it and it was certainly a town that should not be missed.  H  Decision made we thanked him, and then as he pulled out he yelled, "but watch out for suicide hill!"

Suicide hill is right! We have visited Telegraph Cove before to launch kayaks, but neither of us remembered the hilly road in.  The hills just aren't as much of an issue when you are in your car!  It was a leg draining, heart pumping, lung bursting 15km in.  We arrived and almost crawled in to the marina in search of a campsite.  We are now nestled in an RV Park tucked neatly between the big rigs!  On the bright side, earlier in the day a bear was roaming through the campsite and now our fellow campers are all watching out for us.

Notice the helicopter parked in the background...quicker access to the Cove!

We spent a wonderful afternoon just bumming around the town. This historic village is located near the entrance to Johnstone Strait and a favourite destination for kayakers, wildlife viewers and sports fishing enthusiasts.  During the second world war Telegraph Cove served as a military relay station.  The area is quite enchanting.  Whale watchers excitedly departed on their tours, fishers were cleaning their catch while the seagulls feasted on the scraps and kayakers paddled by.  The historic wooden buildings and boardwalk have been restored and it is easy to loose a day just sitting on the dock people watching - which is exactly what we did!  

Giggle of the day:

We rode in to our designated campsite and were just about to set up our tent, when a couple on bikes road up to us.  We were hot, stinky, grumpy, exhausted and dripping sweat!  I was actually surprised that the couple were brave enough to approach us.  They had been out fishing for the morning and were now off on their bikes to explore the area.  I suspect they had enjoyed a few liquid refreshments on their fishing boat, as they were struggling a bit to ride in a straight line.  They said we looked like people who might have a bike pump....they had a flat tire and needed our help!

#cycle #cycletour #HaidaGwaii #explorebc #northisland #telegraphcove

Day 6 Roberts Lake to Woss

Day 6 - Roberts Lake to Woss

102 km

We did more than order a cinnamon bun!  We visited the cafe, ordered up the Loggers Special and had a wonderful morning chatting with Lorna, chief cook and expert in residence for all things Robert Lake.  This amazing Grandma has been cooking up breakies for the area loggers for over 40 years.  Her cafe is full of knick knacks, old photos and memorabilia....all with a story behind them.  She delighted us with her tales...and with her home-cooked goodies.  A definite pit stop should you find yourself near Roberts Lake!  Ask for Lorna, and be sure to give her dog Ruger a nibble.

What goes up must come down!  After yesterday's long hill climb we were treated to an exhilarating descent.  We felt great, the highway was good, shoulders quite wide, a few washboards to contend with but all in all good riding conditions. We cruised into the corner store in Sayward and treated ourselves to a lemonade. While lounging about we met our first gunsmith.  When asked about his business he replied, "I got tired of fixing all of my friends and neighbours guns for free, so I started a business."  Made sense.

Everyone in Sayward warned us about the upcoming climbs and we were feeling a little anxious about the road ahead.  They were not exaggerating.  The Sayward  Canyon climb was tough, but once again on the downhill we were rewarded with panoramic mountain views.  The area is beautiful!  Not the route to choose if you are looking for towns, shops and cafes, but for us it was a joy to be cycling mile after mile in the forests.  There are numerous clearcut areas.  Clearly logging is a huge part of the local economy.

We were beginning another long climb up to Hoomac Lake.  It was gruelling!  We were forced to get off and walk at times as the effect of the heat and the climb was beginning to tax our legs.  We were  quite low on water and we were both getting cranky when we arrived at the rest stop to be greeted by an amazing young family.  They were on vacation, touring the Island and curious about our bikes.  We shared cycling stories, and joked about the "false flats", a crazy optical illusion in which the road appears flat but your legs scream hill! They generously filled our water bottles and shared a few energy treats with us.  They told us the temperature was 33 degrees.  I am 100 per cent positive that we will be happy to have our long johns and toques when we are on the zodiak in Haida Gwaii, but at that moment in time it seemed absolutely ridiculous to be hauling that extra weight up these hills.

We arrived at the turn to our intended campsite to be greeted by a 10km gravel road.  We looked at each other in disbelief and made an easy decision to go another click on the paved highway and look for a room at the Rugged Mountain Inn.

Giggle of the Day

The Rugged Mountain Inn is also home to the Rugged Mountain Pub.  In all honesty if you were driving by the place, you might be afraid to stop.  However, we were thirsty and hungry and we figured at the very least the pub would have COLD beer.  The menu was a bizarre mish mash of burgers, fries and sushi.  We decided to roll the dice and order the sushi.  No word of a lie....it was some of the best sushi we have ever had.  The suishi chef has trained for years and recently immigrated to Canada, making Woss his new home.  He was absolutely charming and we are confident he will make Woss the Sushi Capital of Vancouver Island.

#cycle #cycletour #explorebc #haidagwaii

Haida Gwaii - On the Edge of the World

Haida Gwaii - On the Edge of the World

For years a visit to Haida Gwaii has been on our wish list!  This archipelago off the Northwest Coast of British Columbia is remote, incredibly beautiful, relatively untouched and rich in Haida culture.  The fascinating history of the Haida people goes back to the great floods and the first tree.  The islands have been nicknamed the Galapagos of the North because of the distinct flora and fauna that have evolved over thousands of years....and the beaches are amazing!

We are fascinated by this awe-inspiring place, home to Gwaii Haanas National Park and Haida Heritage Site and honoured to be visiting.  To make our vacation extra special, we have booked a four day tour with Moresby Explorers.  The icing on the cake - our daughter is working as a Guide for Moresby.  We are excited to visit with her and learn more about the place she currently calls home.

Our plan is to cycle from our home in Surrey to Port Hardy on Vancouver Island and then make our way to the islands by ferry.  Thanks again for your interest in sharing our bike tours with us....as always your support and positive feedback help us up those hills!  I must confess the hills do seem to be getting much steeper with each passing year.

Our trip to the Edge of the World begins on July 3rd..... 

Here's a short video that will give you a feel for this amazing place.

Haida Gwaii - a Walk in Our World...when you've reached the edge of your world, our begins!

#cycle #cycletour #cyclebc #haidagwaii #explorebc #tourismbc #discoveroutdoors #myopus