Day 7 Woss to Telegraph Cove

Day 7  Woss to Telegraph Cove

81km

Awesome, Breathtaking, Inspiring, Majestic....I wish words could describe the beauty of today's ride.  We were on the road really early in an attempt to beat the heat and were rewarded with forest views, miles of towering rock walls and glimpses of mountain ridges lining the Nimpkish Valley.

This valley is the largest watershed on Vancouver Island.  The early morning light caught the stands of alder trees and created an almost magical effect.

The roads were really quiet, which was a blessing as we had little or no shoulder for most of the ride.  It is always unsettling when a big Semi Truck or Logging truck screams by you and there is not a shoulder to escape on to. The miles came easily today and before we knew it we were at the turn off to Telegraph Cove.

We had pulled of to the side of the road for a quick "nibble" and were debating whether to turn off to Telegraph Cove or continue on to Port McNeil, when a truck pulled up and asked if we needed directions.  We discussed our plight with the kind stranger who insisted we go to Telegraph Cove.  He said we would absolutely love it and it was certainly a town that should not be missed.  H  Decision made we thanked him, and then as he pulled out he yelled, "but watch out for suicide hill!"

Suicide hill is right! We have visited Telegraph Cove before to launch kayaks, but neither of us remembered the hilly road in.  The hills just aren't as much of an issue when you are in your car!  It was a leg draining, heart pumping, lung bursting 15km in.  We arrived and almost crawled in to the marina in search of a campsite.  We are now nestled in an RV Park tucked neatly between the big rigs!  On the bright side, earlier in the day a bear was roaming through the campsite and now our fellow campers are all watching out for us.

Notice the helicopter parked in the background...quicker access to the Cove!

We spent a wonderful afternoon just bumming around the town. This historic village is located near the entrance to Johnstone Strait and a favourite destination for kayakers, wildlife viewers and sports fishing enthusiasts.  During the second world war Telegraph Cove served as a military relay station.  The area is quite enchanting.  Whale watchers excitedly departed on their tours, fishers were cleaning their catch while the seagulls feasted on the scraps and kayakers paddled by.  The historic wooden buildings and boardwalk have been restored and it is easy to loose a day just sitting on the dock people watching - which is exactly what we did!  

Giggle of the day:

We rode in to our designated campsite and were just about to set up our tent, when a couple on bikes road up to us.  We were hot, stinky, grumpy, exhausted and dripping sweat!  I was actually surprised that the couple were brave enough to approach us.  They had been out fishing for the morning and were now off on their bikes to explore the area.  I suspect they had enjoyed a few liquid refreshments on their fishing boat, as they were struggling a bit to ride in a straight line.  They said we looked like people who might have a bike pump....they had a flat tire and needed our help!

#cycle #cycletour #HaidaGwaii #explorebc #northisland #telegraphcove

Day 6 Roberts Lake to Woss

Day 6 - Roberts Lake to Woss

102 km

We did more than order a cinnamon bun!  We visited the cafe, ordered up the Loggers Special and had a wonderful morning chatting with Lorna, chief cook and expert in residence for all things Robert Lake.  This amazing Grandma has been cooking up breakies for the area loggers for over 40 years.  Her cafe is full of knick knacks, old photos and memorabilia....all with a story behind them.  She delighted us with her tales...and with her home-cooked goodies.  A definite pit stop should you find yourself near Roberts Lake!  Ask for Lorna, and be sure to give her dog Ruger a nibble.

What goes up must come down!  After yesterday's long hill climb we were treated to an exhilarating descent.  We felt great, the highway was good, shoulders quite wide, a few washboards to contend with but all in all good riding conditions. We cruised into the corner store in Sayward and treated ourselves to a lemonade. While lounging about we met our first gunsmith.  When asked about his business he replied, "I got tired of fixing all of my friends and neighbours guns for free, so I started a business."  Made sense.

Everyone in Sayward warned us about the upcoming climbs and we were feeling a little anxious about the road ahead.  They were not exaggerating.  The Sayward  Canyon climb was tough, but once again on the downhill we were rewarded with panoramic mountain views.  The area is beautiful!  Not the route to choose if you are looking for towns, shops and cafes, but for us it was a joy to be cycling mile after mile in the forests.  There are numerous clearcut areas.  Clearly logging is a huge part of the local economy.

We were beginning another long climb up to Hoomac Lake.  It was gruelling!  We were forced to get off and walk at times as the effect of the heat and the climb was beginning to tax our legs.  We were  quite low on water and we were both getting cranky when we arrived at the rest stop to be greeted by an amazing young family.  They were on vacation, touring the Island and curious about our bikes.  We shared cycling stories, and joked about the "false flats", a crazy optical illusion in which the road appears flat but your legs scream hill! They generously filled our water bottles and shared a few energy treats with us.  They told us the temperature was 33 degrees.  I am 100 per cent positive that we will be happy to have our long johns and toques when we are on the zodiak in Haida Gwaii, but at that moment in time it seemed absolutely ridiculous to be hauling that extra weight up these hills.

We arrived at the turn to our intended campsite to be greeted by a 10km gravel road.  We looked at each other in disbelief and made an easy decision to go another click on the paved highway and look for a room at the Rugged Mountain Inn.

Giggle of the Day

The Rugged Mountain Inn is also home to the Rugged Mountain Pub.  In all honesty if you were driving by the place, you might be afraid to stop.  However, we were thirsty and hungry and we figured at the very least the pub would have COLD beer.  The menu was a bizarre mish mash of burgers, fries and sushi.  We decided to roll the dice and order the sushi.  No word of a lie....it was some of the best sushi we have ever had.  The suishi chef has trained for years and recently immigrated to Canada, making Woss his new home.  He was absolutely charming and we are confident he will make Woss the Sushi Capital of Vancouver Island.

#cycle #cycletour #explorebc #haidagwaii

Day 5 - Comox to Roberts Lake, BC

Day 5 - Comox to Roberts Lake, BC

90 km 

I love the small town vibe!  Charming, quaint - to me small towns represent something from our past.  A time when we knew our neighbours, when we took time to say hello and when we took an interest in our community.  I admit that I am probably looking at these towns through rose coloured glasses.  Yes, problems do exist in small towns but for today I am feeling very positive about life in a small town and wondering how and why life in the big city has become so fast paced and impersonal.  Hmmmm - strange I keep singing "I was born in small town" by John Mellancamp.

We were barely two minutes into our ride when a dog walker gave us a huge wave and wished us a great trip.  Several people waved and we had a couple of honks - I assume they were good luck honks and not get off the road honks.  Good omens for sure.

We were both very excited because we were beginning to cycle new territory north of Comox.  As we rounded a turn on our approach to Campbell River we had our first glimpse of the ocean for the day.  It was uplifting!  We increased our pace and arrived in Campbell River, the Salmon Capital of Canada, before we knew it.

As fortune would have it Campbell River had recently hosted the 19th Annual Chainsaw  Carving competition, Transformations on the Shore, and the incredible works of art were still on display along the seaside trail.  We were amazed at the beauty and workmanship of the carvings - true artists!  My favourite was Beneath the Ice by Joel Palmer and Rob took a fancy to Scare the Crow by Cody Lafrance.  

Leaving Campbell River we were faced with a long, slow, hot, 20km hill climb.  The heat wave continues and we find ourselves facing temperatures in the 30's - very unusual for BC, especially this far north.  I was reminded that I am not a fan of pedalling uphill.  As luck would have it, just as our legs were giving out, we stumbled upon Tammy's Cafe and she was making some of the most delicious smoothies this side of Campbell River.  The icing on the cake - a few kilometres from Tammy's we discovered fresh, cold spring water and took the opportunity to fill up our water bottles.   The water was clear, clean and cold.  Juiced up and at the top of the hill, we had a nice easy descent to Roberts Lake Resort...home for the night.

Giggle of the day:

I hate to sound like a broken record, but have I mentioned you can't beat local knowledge?  On the Mill Bay ferry we were chatting with an Islander and inquiring about potential campsites north of Campbell River.  She highly recommended Roberts Lake Resort and told us about the quaint cabins nestled beside the lake.  She wasn't sure if they took tenters, but was convinced that the owners were good folk and would take us in.  During our pit stop in Comox, Rob phoned ahead to the Resort inquiring about tents.  When the owner learned we were on our bikes he said, "If you pedal here you can camp for free.  Just buy one of my cinnamon buns."  Local Knowledge!

#explorebc #cycletour #campbellriver #robertslake #bike #myopus

Day 4 - Ladysmith to Comox, BC

Day 4 - Ladysmith to Comox,  BC

154 km

We woke to find the air quality even worse than yesterday.  The haze was thick and the sun had a spooky look to it.  It was unsettling to say the least.  Our concerns grew worse as we cycled along the E and N Trail in Nanaimo.  A fellow cyclist rode up beside us to chat and ride a few kilometers with us.  He was wearing a mask and told us about the air quality advisories.  We continued on and a few minutes later passed a fellow getting out of his truck...he was wearing a full gas mask.

Mid Day Sun - Believe or Not!

Of course, we are worried about the effects of cycling under these conditions, but truly we are deeply concerned about our precious forests and the young people on the fire crews who are valiantly battling over 161 forest fires currently raging in our province.  I can not begin to express how angry we feel seeing cigarette butts on the ground at almost every rest stop and park we visit.  Will we ever learn?

Thanks to the route tips from Mike and Lesley we managed to cycle from Ladysmith all the way to Parksville with very little time on the Island Highway.  Of course, when you take the back roads, you often add a few extra miles and a few more hills, but it is worth it.  We enjoyed touring through parts of the Island we had never visited before.  Unfortunately, we could not take in all of the scenic view points along the way due to the heavy haze.

We stopped for second breakfast, a cycle touring tradition, in Parksville.  Our waitress immediately noticed Rob's turtle nails, and sweetly commented, "You've been painting your nails, I see."  Rob, a man of few words replied, "It's along story."

Our backroads route took us through Lantzville and Chemainus.  We enjoyed strolling the streets of Old Downtown Chemainus and took time out to explore their famous murals.  We ended our day at our favourite B and B in Comox.  As usual the company and accommodations were superb!

It was an incredibly long, hot day and once again I was reminded of the importance of having a solid touring partner.  Rob literally willed me to make it to Comox.  I am 100% sure that without him I would still be lounging on the beach at Fanny Bay.

Giggle of the Day:

Our friendly hosts in Comox went above and beyond to make us feel comfortable and welcome.  As we went to bed, we found several tree branches and twigs on the duvet cover.  Nothing like bringing the outdoors in to make us feel at home!

Day 3 - Shawnigan Lake to Ladysmith, B.C

Day 3 - Shawnigan Lake to Ladysmith, BC

102 km

We woke up bright and early and reported to our Muster Station at 0700 for a hearty breakfast of eggs, waffles and sausage.  Our team captain Paul is a career military man, now retired.  Of course we all have the utmost respect for Paul and his impressive career, yet we relentlessly, playfully and tirelessly teased him any chance we could regarding his military precision.  I am afraid our team of "military misfits" would not do well at boot camp.  Clearly our expertise is all things TURTLE.

The morning route for the MS Ride was my favourite.  We circled Shawnigan Lake, managing to find yet more wineries to tour.

It was a beautiful ride around the lake and out to the historic Kinsol trestle.  Our team met at the trestle and cycled in the last few kilometres as a group, crossing the finish line together in all our glory.

To call the event a success is an understatement.  Our team raised over $5000 and the ride as a whole raised over $350,000.  Hopefully, the funds will help!

We enjoyed lunch together as a team and then it was time for farewells.  Rob and I were feeling anxious to get on our way.  We were really intrigued by the Kinsol Trestle and Cowichan Valley trail, part of the Trans Canada Trail system.  Karen and James had kindly done some scouting work earlier in the day and reported back that the trail would be good for our bikes.  Great advice!  We were aching to get off the roads and onto trail and enjoyed a long, relaxing ride through the valley towards Duncan.

We have learned over the years that "you can't beat local knowledge" especially with respect to routes and breaky spots!  Again, this proved true as Rob picked Mike and Lesley's brains for bike friendly routes toward Nanaimo.  They did not let us down, as they provided us with a gem of a ride from Duncan to Ladysmith along back roads and through Chemanius.

As we cycled along we were becoming increasingly concerned about air quality.  Sadly, we are in the middle of a very, long hot drought and our forests are on fire!  The sun is a blazing ball of bright orange, and there is a very thick haze due to the smoke.  We have heard through the grapevine that there is a large fire near Port Hardy and several families have been evacuated.  We will need to keep our eye on the fire status as Port Hardy is our next ferry stop.

We had been hoping to reach Nanaimo today, but after a long, hot ride we opted to crash in a motel in Ladysmith, just a few km short of our intended destination.  Coincidentally, the Women's FIFA World Cup final is on, and our motel has a TV.....a feature our tent is lacking.

Giggle of the day:

As we were riding towards the Kinsol Trestle we noticed a Budda statue nestled in the shrubbery on the side of the road.  Another good omen?

Day 2 - Mill Bay, BC to Shawnigan Lake & Cowichan Valley Grape Escape

Day 2 - Bamberton Provincial Campground, Mill Bay to Shawnigan Lake School and the MS Ride - Grape Valley Escape

87 km

Bamberton Provinical Campsite was a gem and we were sorry to only be spending one night there.  Nestled in the forest and a short hike to the beach, this campsite is a family favourite.  We were thrilled to see scores of young families camping and delighted in the antics of the kids as they explored the campsite on their bikes....round, round, and round they went with unbridled enthusiasm and tireless energy.

Our morning took us from Bamberton Provincial campsite to Shawnigan Lake School.  We were meeting up with the FasTurtles cycling team, sponsored by The Tourism Cafe to take part in a two day fundraising ride for MS.  The ride is very close to our hearts as our brother in law, and Team Captain Paul is battling the disease.  We were also riding in support of our very dear friend Gail.

As we approached Shawnigan Lake school we were blown away.  It is a page right out of the Harry Potter books and while we waited for our team to arrive we entertained ourselves by searching for Dumbledore and the gang.  We expected them to materialize at any moment.

The ride was fantastic!  We are the new members this year and were welcomed with open arms and instantly felt part of this amazing group of people.  We spent the day, in the blazing hot sun cycling through the Cowichan Valley, visiting numerous wineries and enjoying time with our team mates.  

Kudos to the organizing committee, sponsors and countless volunteers who worked to coordinate such a terrific ride.  Tomorrow we will learn how much many we raised in support of MS research.  Judging by the enthusiasm of the participating teams, we expect to hear good news.

Throughout the ride we continually remarked how beautiful and interesting the Cowichan Valley is....a definite spot to visit especially if you enjoy the odd glass of wine.

It was a hot day, we later learned the temperature rose to 34 degrees.  You could literally feel the heat radiating off the pavement as you rode.  Rob and I were both feeling the effects of the heat yet our team captain Paul kept on trucking.  He was truly inspirational to watch and we felt proud to be part of his team.

The day ended with a wonderful banquet dinner in the dining hall.  We enjoyed spending time with our team mates Karen, James, Mike and Lesley - quite a turtley group to say the least.  Tonight our tent is set up on the  immaculate rugby pitch at Shawnigan Lake School.  We are nestled between the goalpost.  We have never pitched a tent in location quite like this.   Tomorrow we ride again!

Giggle of the Day

Turtle Power! Paul was definitely the captain and inspiration for our team, but to say his wife Nancy was the top cheerleader is an understatement!  Nancy is a life force, a category 5 storm!  She is full of energy, enthusiasm and has an infectious laugh that is contagious!  Under Nancy's direction we found ourselves wearing turtles on our hemets, turtled themed bandanas on our necks,, painting our nails a deep shade of green (turtle shells of course) and singing "turtle power" for 70 km straight!  Our team was highly visible along the road and at all the pit stops.  Thank you Nancy, Paul and Tourism Cafe.

Scotiabank MS Bike
Cowichan Valley Grape Escape

Day 1 - Surrey BC to Mill Bay, BC

Day 1 - Surrey,BC to Mill Bay

69 km

Bikes loaded and ready to start the tour!

Do you believe in omens?  I suppose I believe in good omens and if I am honest with myself I dismiss bad omens as silly superstitions.  Today started with a series of good, if not great omens.  We decided to get a really early start in order to beat the heat and were on the road by 5:34am - yes 5:34 exactly - I checked my watch.  We were feeling strong, excited and ready to spin!  The sun was rising as the full moon was setting, the air was calm, mist was coming off the fields and we could hear owls hooting.  I know it sounds like I am making this up....but, truly conditions were PERFECT!  At exactly 5:51 am - yes exactly 5:51 - I checked my watch, we got our first AWESOME.  A cyclist on his morning commute to work rode up beside us and gave us a thumbs up.  He said he could never cycle with that much weight and gave us a hearty "safe travels".  

Buoyed by our first awesome, we continued on and soon bumped in to a couple out on their morning walk.  We stopped to chat and learned that the lady had lived in Haida Gwaii.  She wished us well and enthusiastically told us how much we would love the islands.  Our luck continued as we arrived at the ferry terminal and literally rode on to boat..and secured the coveted first in line position at the cafeteria.  Waiting to disembark, we chatted with another couple who were on their way to cycle on Salt Spring Island.  They were avid cyclists, and as  luck would have it they had visited Haida Gwaii years ago and stayed with some of the Morseby Explorers folk.  Small world!

Our route took us from the Swartz Bay ferry terminal along the coast through North Saanich.  It was a pretty ride and before we knew it we were in Brentwood Bay.  As we began our trip down the hill to the ferry, our good luck continued.  We arrived just in time to load!  We looked at each other in disbelief.  We have a past history of "just missing" ferries, so to be consistently arriving in time seemed surreal.

Scenic Brentwood Bay

We enjoyed a quick and scenic sailing to Mill Bay and then hopped on our bikes to begin the climb to our campsite in Bamberton Provincial Park.  We arrived by lunch - unbelievable.  We treated ourselves to a swim in the ocean and a very decadent, but well deserved nap.

Bamberton Provincial Park, Vancouver Island, BC

Good omens?  I don't know....maybe, it is simply how you interpret things that come your way....what i do know for sure is that we are off to a great start....only a few hundred more kilometres to go and we will be in Haida Gwaii.

Just another day on the beach!

Giggle of the day:

As we were on the ferry heading towards Swartz Bay, Rob heard the distant sound of bagpipes.  I didn't hear anything and thought he was losing his mind.  He was convinced, and went off in search of the Piper.  Sure enough, on the lower outside deck, a gentleman was playing the pipes.  Seriously - you can not invent this stuff!  It brought a tear to my eye, as I listened to the sounds of Amazing Grace.  We stood transfixed for the rest of the sailing.  Yes - I believe in omens!

Live entertainment on BC Ferries

BC Ferries scheduleswww.bcferries.ca